Sento Sensei Reviews, Uncategorized

Sauna and Hotel Karumaru

Refined. Modern. Balanced.

Tattoos Okay? No
Sauna? Yes
Price? $$$
Should I bring toiletries? No
Best For? Those looking for an equal balance of high quality baths and sauna. Anyone looking for a capsule hotel destination with a complimentary sauna experience to match.

Nearest Station: Ikebukuro Station. 3 minute walk.

Advertised as one the Kanto region’s largest sauna facilities, Karumaru has been a player on the Tokyo sauna scene for quite some time. Anyone who has been will see why it has made such a name for itself. Featuring a modern yet classic aesthetic, a great balance of baths and sauna, and amenities to match, Sauna and Hotel Karumaru is a sauna destination worth visiting. Let’s dig into what makes it stand out!

Aesthetics

Located on several high-level floors of a multi-story building near Ikebukuro station, Sauna Karumaru cultivates an oasis-like environment in an otherwise exciting and chaotic part of Tokyo.

When I think of this facility, its natural stone and wood tones are what come to mind. Maintaining a light wood motif throughout, Sauna Karumaru forces you to forget you are in urban Tokyo, and relax into your natural surroundings. From the bright wood tones in the lobby, to the calm rooftop garden hidden in the center of Ikebukuro, Sauna Karumaru puts bathers at ease from start to finish.

The venue’s overall aesthetic is enhanced by the attention to detail to non-visual senses as well, specifically smell and touch. In particular, I think of the herb selection in the steam sauna, and the use of real wood in the wood-burning sauna. Additionally, the meticulous attention to detail used to craft each of the sauna (more on that in the facilities section of this review) give each and every bath/sauna a unique sensation, not duplicated anywhere else in the facility.

As you ascend up Sauna Karumaru, the amount of greenery gradually increases, a subtle detail I appreciated. From the lack of plants in the lobby, you start to see some loose birch branches in the resting areas, then towards the top floor, you can spot a small bonsai tree, leading to the outdoor rooftop with full trees at the center of the roof. The gradual addition of plants subtly lures you into relaxing and unwinding as you retreat from the city and into the depths of the facility.

Culture/vibe

Sauna Karumaru secured a second place Saunachelin spot back in 2020, as well as a third place spot in 2021. As both an early and well recognized player in the Japanese sauna boom, Sauna Karumaru is well renowned for its variety of sauna, conscious aesthetic choices, and attention to detail. Taking a closer look, there is more going on behind the scenes that makes Sauna Karumaru standout.

Beyond being a business, two concepts are the driving force of everything that happens at Sauna Karumaru: “Human Return” (人間回帰) and “My Place” (自分の居場所). On Karumaru’s “Concept” page, “Human Return is described as:

Nature has the power to bring people back to normal.
Therefore, when people are tired, they desire nature.
However, nature is far away.
So, Karumaru is a place where people can feel nature and return to their normal selves while still being in the city.
That is one of the concepts of Karumaru.

Something I really appreciate about the description is how it emphasizes the value of nature without needing to devalue urban life. As someone who loves cities and values the urban experience, I often see a dualistic “cities are bad/nature is good” at the core of arguments to convince people to spend more time in nature. Both are absolutely important, and I appreciate the balance emphasized here. I also, as someone who loves cities, do not spend nearly enough time out in nature. Whenever I make the time to spend time in nature, removed from the constant noise of the modern world (spare a friend or two that I brought along for the ride), I always come back refreshed and recharged to better appreciate the exciting pace of my urban life.

Living in Tokyo, I have come to appreciate how the city so effectively maintains a balance between bustling urban spaces and dedicated parks, temples, and even sauna that reintegrate nature into your daily life. With essential oils, a wood burning sauna, and plants carefully placed around the facility, Sauna Karumaru does an excellent job of taking you into the woods without having to leave the world’s largest city.

“My Place”, the other motif of Sauna Karumaru, is described as

A place that seems to be everywhere, but surprisingly is not.
However, everyone has moments when they want to relax.
Karumaru is a place where you can find your own place to relax.
That is one of the concepts of Karumaru.

This first line strongly resonated with me. A conversation that I frequently have within the sauna community is how increasingly rare “third places” are. Outside of bars and the occasional gym, many of the conventional places outside of the home and work for people to congregate have disappeared or diminished over the past forty years. Where local community organizations, labor unions, and recreational sports teams previously served as spaces outside of work to form friendships and relax, these spaces are becoming increasingly less common for adults.

While this has been the case in much of the developed world for the past 30-40 years, it seems to have been accelerated by the global pandemic. One of (and possibly the last) bastions of a cell-phone free space, sauna have, oddly enough, emerged as a third place in nearly everywhere I have traveled. Ranging from small towns to the largest cities in the world, sauna provide a third place for a lot of people, including many of my close friends. Free from the constant bombardment of modern technology, you are forced both to connect with people and relax into your body. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that Japan’s sauna boom has coincided with COVID-19 so neatly. People crave a third space and connection deeply, which places like Sauna Karumaru understand.

*For more on this topic, Robert Putnam’s “Bowling Alone” does a great deep dive from a sociological perspective on this issue, focusing specifically on American public life, and its decline into the late 20th century.

Facilities:

Kero Sauna (left) and Stone Sauna (right)

Kero (Kelo) Sauna:

If you’re anything like me, you are probably curious what a “kero” sauna is. The “kero” in kero sauna refers to kelo wood (Japanese doesn’t have the L sound, so it is adjusted here to fit the Japanese phonology). Those who are a fan of my reviews may recognize the term from my Sauna Tokyo review, which also boasts a kelo sauna.

Kelo wood comes from pine trees in Finland that have grown for 300-400 years, then gone through the process of dying and shedding bark for several decades, until it has completed this process, and can then be considered kelo wood. Given how long it takes for “new” kelo wood to emerge, the wood is considered a rarity. Additionally, kelo wood is an incredibly effective as an insulator, and has a distinctly comforting woodsy scent that make kelo wood highly sought after in sauna building.

Sauna Karumaru’s kelo sauna seats just under ten people, and does an excellent job of keeping mid-to high heat paired with moderate humidity. The top and bottom levels are drastically different temperatures than each other, which allows for a more relaxed or intense experience in the sauna.

Stone Sauna:

Karumaru’s largest sauna, this stone sauna uses Aji stone, a highly durable type of Japanese granite that is known for its densitiy and durability. The use of Aji stone results in a sauna that effectively retains heat, while also absorbing excess heat to ensure a comfortable sauna experience. They also host Aufguss here, which is a pleasant experience on any of the four sauna benches, due to the stone sauna’s effective heat regulation.

Barrel Steam Sauna:

A personal sauna with a capacity for one (be prepared to wait in line), the barrel steam sauna is made of Koya Pine from Wakayama Prefecture in western Japan, as well as Himalayan and Nanyang cedar. These types of wood give the sauna rot-resistance from the steam exposure, as well as a nice woodsy aroma you can smell inside the sauna. Each person only gets around six minutes in the sauna, but trust me: that is ample time. The barrel sauna gets incredibly hot, and will have you running into the near-freezing cold plunge nearby!

Wood Burning Sauna:

My personal favorite, this sauna lives up to its name and uses an actual wood-fired stove as its heat source. Only groups of five are allowed in at a time, so you enter with a sense of anticipation and excitement. With a temperature around 80 degrees (around 176 Farenheit), the sauna allows you to slowly build up to a steady and comfortable sweat. Used in conjunction with the nearby cold plunge, this sauna is an absolute treat.

*This sauna only seats five at a time, so time slots are booked every hour in the main bathing area, so be sure to keep an eye out for when time slots are called!

Baths:

Note: Due to the sheer volume of baths (nine), this section will just cover the most unique baths. The rest are normal warm, cool, and electric baths that live up to the quality of the other amenities.

Thunder Tornado

This one is cold! I mean really cold! The temperature is above freezing at around 8-9 degrees (around 45 degrees). On its own, this can be cold but bearable. However, what really takes this pool up a notch is the hot-tub style jets that keep the water moving at all times. This makes the water feel close to freezing for an always exhilarating, often intense experience. Great after a high heat sauna session. Be careful with this one, especially if you are new to sauna!

Acrylic Avant (transparent cold bath/plunge tank)

Located on the rooftop deck, this one person plunge tank is designed like an Avant (which means “hole in a frozen lake in Finnish”). Just a few steps away from both the wood burning sauna and several warm rooftop baths, this bath is an absolute treat! With a temperature at around 14 degrees (57 Fahrenheit), the one-meter deep plunge tank matches the surrounding baths and sauna incredibly well. This bath is possibly my favorite amenity from an aesthetic standpoint, as I think its easy to look at, and complements its surroundings well.

Rock and Box Baths:

Situated next to each other, the Rock and Box baths offer the most bathing focused experiences in area up the stairs from most of the sauna facilities.

The rock bath is set at a relaxing “neutral warm” temperature of 36 degrees (97 degrees), that make it a pleasant bath to reset and relax in. The bath is made of Kitagi stone from the Okayama prefecture in and around the Southern portion of Honshu, the largest island in Japan. Combined with the serene garden through the window, I really enjoyed utilizing this bath to unwind between intense sauna and cold bath sessions.

The box bath uses Aomori Hiba wood, a type of Cypress wood historically used in the construction of temples, and has a refreshing aroma well suited for baths. Lying down in the body length bath gives a regal feeling, especially situated next to the visible outdoor garden and up the stairs from the majority of the sauna and baths. These baths are fairly hot at around 42 degrees (107 Fahrenheit), so it does’t take long to get the most out of these baths.

Bonus- Rest Area

Located a few floors down from the rest of the facilities, you can find one of my favorite parts of Sauna Karumaru- the rest area! Famous for its absolutely massive library with over 10,000 manga and magazines, you could spend nearly an entire day here alone (especially if you can read Japanese!).

The lounge area itself is excellent as well, with lots of comfortable chairs and places to sit and read. Be sure to stop by at some point on your visit!

Limitations/shortcomings:

While I do sincerely appreciate Sauna Karumaru’s sauna facilities, an issue I have ran into on my trips are the relatively small capacities of most of the sauna. Sauna Karumaru boasts four excellent sauna. However, two of them have a very limited capacity, with the barrel steam sauna seating only one person, and the wood sauna only seating five people. For a facility housing (what I estimate) to be around one hundred people using the bathing facilities at a given time, having only two sauna that fit more than five people can make things feel a bit cramped. Even just one additional sauna fit to hold ten to fifteen more people would give the space a bit more breathing room and make the congestion more manageable.

Lastly, this is a minor complaint, but in my sessions in the barrel steam sauna, I found that it would border on painful to exit the sauna with how much the steam would accumulate. In my experience, my gut reaction to the adding humidity to the sauna (steam, loyly, etc.) should be “aaahhh” and not “ow!”. Again, it’s nothing major, but lowering the steam output by just a bit would make the barrel steam sauna an even better experience than it already is.

Best Moment:

The wood burning sauna is nothing short of magical. While capacity is limited and you will likely only get to use once during your stay, it is absolutely a must during your time at Karumaru. In combination with the outdoor transparent cold plunge/Avant, I left the wood sauna grinning ear to ear.

Verdict

Sauna Karumaru is both a great introduction to the specifics of Japanese sauna culture, and well refined bathing facilities. If you are looking for a balance of sauna and baths, a sauna/bathing oriented capsule hotel experience, and an excellent lounge to unwind in afterwards, give Sauna Karumaru a visit!

Food Pairing:

Anan (Yakiniku next door!)

Right across from the elevator to the entrance is a yakinikku restaurant. For those unfamiliar, yakiniku is similar to korean barbeque. When Koreans intitially imigrated to Osaka in west Japan, they brought Korean BBQ with them. Overtime, this developed some distinctly Japanese characteristics and became what is now yakinikku. If you’re hungry after your sauna session, this couldn’t be more conveniently located.

Greater Ikebukuro station.

While yakiniku is nice and convenient, there are also countless food options near Japan’s third largest (!) subway station. If you’re adventurous, I would highly encourage going for a stroll and seeing what you find! There are lots of both Japanese and international food options, so you’re bound to find something to your liking before too long.

Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

An Introduction to Aufguss: A German Sauna ritual finding new life in Japan

Imagine. One moment, you are sitting in the sauna, quietly enjoying your session. All of a sudden, the heat intensifies. You look up and see flashing lights, a moving towel diffusing essential oils throughout the sauna, and all of this is done in sync to awe inspiring music. Only half-sure of what I was getting myself into, little did I know that I would soon become obsessed with this small ritual within the already specific niche Japanese sauna culture. This is Aufguss.

What is Aufguss?

If I were to sum up Aufguss, I would describe it as such:

The ceremony of towel waving to diffuse essential oils throughout the sauna, often to music, with the aim of providing the audience with an intense heating experience that is often fused with artistic elements (coordinated towel waving to music, flashing lights, etc.).

To provide more clarity, I will also provide a definition that I really liked from Martjin Vanhoorelbelke, a two-time Aufguss World Champion finalist, taken from an excerpt found on Brooklyn sauna Bathhouse‘s website:

“Aufguss is a sauna ritual lasting about 15 minutes. It’s a multi-sensory experience inside the sauna. The Aufguss master works with water to circulate heat throughout the sauna with a towel. The core elements of an Aufguss are heat, essential oils and music.”

Vanhoorebelke then describes the goal of Aufguss as:

“To take you on a trip. It’s about having an experience that extracts the benefits of a sauna session and heightens them: elevated levels of endorphins and serotonin. Additionally, different essential oils can be utilized for different outcomes. For instance, peppermint can be used as a revitalizing oil, lavender for calm, and eucalyptus to clear the airways.”

Beautifully put. Better than I could have myself.

Aufguss in Japan

While Aufguss originates from Germany, it has gained popularity in Japan amidst the ongoing sauna boom. In Tokyo, many of the more reputable sauna/sento host regular Aufguss nights, with slots often booking out several hours in advance. Some of the top saunas even have their own teams that host elaborate Aufguss shows, many of which are used at “Aufguss Championship Japan”, Japan’s Aufguss national tournament.

At the national tournament, Aufguss performances are evaluated based on the following criteria:

  1. Professionalism
  2. Heat rise and distribution
  3. Fan technique [using the towel]
  4. How to use and amount of fragrance
  5. Theme and show structure
  6. Judge’s personal evaluation
  7. Team Spirit (groups only)

(translated using Google)

Teams and individuals that win move on to the World Aufguss Championship to compete on the international stage.

Competitive Aufguss performances are typically centered around a motif, such as a song or story that set the mood for the session. For example, This performer (one I have seen at Sauna Tokyo and is an excellent practitioner) has submitted an entry for the Aufguss Championship Japan for this year, and will use the song “Piano Man” as the centerpiece for his performance.

To give another distinct example, I’ll share a submission that really caught my eye. Along with a submitted image that looked like it was taken on a flip phone/potato, the only information for the performance listed is “Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone”. While music can certainly be a driving component in Aufguss, other components like storytelling can also define the Aufguss session. I have to say, I’m quite curious how Harry Potter fits into this, and may have to report back to you all on this if I ever get the chance to find out…

Japan has become a force to be reckoned with in the international Aufguss community, with Yuma Kurokawa & Mayuka Sano from Wellbe Sauna in Nagoya winning the Team Competition category in 2023. Japan’s entrance on the global Aufguss stage has increasingly led to more and more Sauna creating Aufguss teams and programs. Seeing the innovation and creative energies surrounding Aufguss is incredibly exciting, and its inclusion at any given facility is always a highlight at any venue I visit.

From Sky Spa Yokohama, an Aufguss venue that is very high on my to-visit list!

Where can I Experience Aufguss in Tokyo?

Want to try Aufguss on your next trip to Japan, but not sure where to look? Fear not! With Aufguss taking the Japanese sauna world by storm, it can be found at many sauna throughout Japan! Since the majority of my sauna expertise is in the Tokyo area, all of my recommendations will be exclusively for Tokyo.

  • Sauna Tokyo
    • At the time of writing this post, this is easily my top recommendation for experiencing Aufguss in Tokyo. Every couple of hours, you are guaranteed to see a top-notch Aufguss show in their sauna outfitted for 50 people.
    • The aufguss practitioners are listed outside of the main sauna, and rotate every hour, so you have lots of opportunities to see different styles of Aufguss in one place.
    • I will go into more detail on Sauna Tokyo’s Aufguss experience in the next section, but to sum it up: Sauna Tokyo is an accessible, high quality way to see Aufguss that I can recommend to anyone.
  • Shibuya Saunas
    • Recognized as a top sauna team that has competed at the Japan Aufguss Championship, this is on the top of my list for Aufguss that I want to check out next. Unfortunately, their Aufguss offerings are somewhat random and are not on a set schedule. It has not been offered on my last two trips here, but online I only hear great things (on the Japanese side of the internet).
    • Regardless, even if Aufguss isn’t offered during your trip, I can highly recommend this facility (review to come at a later date)
  • Spa Laqua
    • Located right by the Tokyo Dome, this is an excellent option if you are looking for a super sento that also offers quality Aufguss sessions.
  • Sky Spa Yokohama
    • Along with Shibuya Saunas, this is on the top of my list for Aufguss that I want to experience. Much like Shibuya Saunas, Sky Spa Yokohama has sent several contestants to the Japan Aufguss National Championship, and regularly is listed as a go-to destination for Aufguss. I still haven’t paid Sky Spa Yokohama a visit, and it’s one of the facilities I am most excited to check out!
  • Sauna and Hotel Karumaru
    • A more low-key option, Aufguss is offered every few hours in their stone sauna. Similar to Spa Laqua’s Aufguss, less performative than Sauna Tokyo, but still done by quality practitioners. Karumaru also has an attached capsule hotel, so if you are looking to bundle your lodging and Aufguss options into one, this is a great choice.

My Aufguss Experience with a Japan National Champion

Flyer for the Aufguss event that I attended

While I have been to several Aufguss shows around Tokyo, I had the opportunity (and paid a little extra) to see the 2022 All Japan Aufguss Champion at Sauna Tokyo. While I have been to several impressive Aufguss shows, this one particularly left an impression. To give a taste of the heights of Japanese Aufguss, here is a narrative account of my experience:

After inquiring at the front desk two hours in advance about the Aufguss event, I was given a number (35 out of the 46 person capacity), and was instructed to line up outside the main Loyly sauna five minutes before to prepare.

Jam-packed to its full 46 person capacity (I suspect there were a few more than 50 in reality), the staff strategically placed several conspicuous looking tools near the sauna stove, including an ice block, a speaker, and several essential-oil diffused buckets of water prior to the start of the performance.

Kicking things off, a series of lights turned on and immediately dimmed to a cool blue, then to red. Then, a Japan Airlines announcement cued on the speaker system, with the Aufguss champion emerging in a Flight Attendant Uniform. Announcing in time with the airline announcement, she followed with (in Japanese) “Welcome to the Sauna Airlines! Please locate the emergency exit and enjoy your flight!”. For the next several minutes, classical music played, with ice blocks being melted on top of the center sauna stove in time with the music. A nice warm breeze, relaxing, but not scorching intermittently spread around the room for several minutes.

All of a sudden, red lights started crashing. “Everyone! Everyone! The plane is crashing! The plane is crashing! We are in danger!!!” Immediately following, “Danger Zone” by Kenny Loggins starts to play over the speakers (yes- the one from Top Gun), and the Aufguss practitioner starts to take things up a notch. The towel waves increase in intensity, the collective atmosphere was filled with excitement and awe. As the guitar solo hit, the practitioner started performing one-handed towel spins that went behind the back and thrown mid-air. The audience started to clap to the rhythm, giving the atmosphere more akin to a rowdy sporting event than a “spa day”. This was the point where I had to look at the fifty other naked individuals wearing pointy sauna hats clapping in sync and remind myself that I had not joined a cult.

After the performance concluded, the audience gave a hearty round of applause, and nearly the entire crowd rushed into the nearby cold plunge pools for a much needed cool-off.

A follow up show the next hour included other members of Sauna Tokyo’s Aufguss team. Perhaps the most inventive idea I’ve seen in an Aufguss performance, one performer had a small handheld leaf blower, and used it to help diffuse the heat around the sauna. Backed by the soundtrack from the anime “Death Note”, the practitioner stated (in Japanese) “I am fear! I am fear!” (from what I could translate in my head), and moved the heat around to those with their hands up requesting more heat.

Needless to say, the Aufguss experience at Sauna Tokyo was exhilarating, awe inspiring, and unlike anything I had ever experienced.

Conclusion

While I could write about Aufguss at further length, its appeal is (perhaps even more so than sauna and bathing) difficult to encapsulate with words, and best experienced. If you want to level up your sauna experience, or want to experience a uniquely Japanese take on a tradition with its origins elsewhere (something Japan excels at), give Aufguss a try!

Thank you so much for reading! More content is on the way after a small hiatus, so please stay tuned!

Sento Sensei Reviews, Uncategorized

Sauna Tokyo

Cutting-edge. Craftsmanship. Masterpiece.

Tattoos Okay? Yes***
Sauna? Yes. And lots of them.
Price? $$
Should I Bring Toiletries? No
Best For? Sauna enthusiasts looking to have immense thought and care go into every aspect of their sauna experience. Those searching for a sauna focused experience in Tokyo. Everyone who visits Tokyo or Japan.

Nearest Station: Akasaka Station (Chiyoda Line). 3 minute walk.

*Their tattoo policy is a bit weird, so I’ll get into it more in the article. The short answer is that you can go to Sauna Tokyo if you have tattoos, but you will have to pay an extra fee.

Located in the ritzy Akasaka district of Tokyo, the area known for the TBS (Tokyo Broadcasting System and Television) Headquarters, Higawa and Nogi Shrines, and now: Tokyo Sauna. A playground for the Tokyo elite, the area probably won’t pop up on a lot of tourist itineraries, but hosts many of Tokyo’s most expensive hotels and restaurants. And right in the heart of it all is perhaps the best sauna complex in the city, if not Japan. With sento architect Kentaro Imai at the helm, and a mission of creating a facility with sauna enthusiasts in mind, it’s hard not to get excited about Sauna Tokyo. Let’s dig into what makes it so great.

Aesthetics:

The driving philosophy behind Sauna Tokyo was to create a sauna facility that showcased a uniquely Japanese take on saunas. On designer Kentaro Imai’s architectural page, the project is described as:

” [Japan is known for] the rearrangement and redesigning of culture imported from abroad to [fit] Japanese specifications.” This is one of the unique characteristics of Japanese culture. The same is true for saunas, which were first imported to Japan during the Tokyo Olympics in the 1960s.

For this project, six cold/heat saunas have been installed under the keyword of “Japanese style” so that users can enjoy these variously arranged Japanese versions of saunas.”*

*Translated using Deep L.

Sauna Tokyo certainly delivers on this front. Apart from the striking, Japanese-inspired entrance, the first floor does a great job of cementing the Japanese aesthetic. With a sleek, black tile finish is present throughout the facility, you are greeted at the bathing area entrance by a black cauldron with water gently overflowing and the same style wash ladle that you would find at every sento across Japan (not pictured).

Upstairs, it’s hard not to be impressed with the contrast of the room’s black finish and the blue glimmer of Sauna Tokyo’s three cold plunge pools.

Aside from the upstairs hub hosting the plunge pools, the interiors of the sauna are just as sleek as the rest of the floor. Using high quality wood that is well kept after, each of the four saunas and the steam room are simultaneously portals into different parts of the Sauna Tokyo experience, while remaining grounded and cohesive feeling within the facility.

Culture/vibe:

Sauna Tokyo’s culture can best be summed up with two core ideas:

  • Japanese Style Sauna
  • Saunners (sauna enthusiasts)

Japanese Style

As covered in the Aesthetics section, Sauna Tokyo was designed with the aim of creating a distinctly Japanese adaptation of sauna. This can be seen in the design choices described above, such as the sento stylings of the first floor, and its adaptation of Aufguss (!).

For those unfamiliar, Aufguss is a sauna ritual originating from Germany (Aufguss literally translates from German as “infusion”) that uses coordinated towel movements to diffuse essential oils around the sauna, and is often done to music. While Aufguss is a topic worthy of its own article, Sauna Tokyo’s top-notch Aufguss is a noteworthy example of a distinctly Japanese take on the sauna experience.

Outside the Löyly sauna (largest sauna hosting up to 40 people), a list of times as well as names of Aufguss practitioners are listed. Rather than using real names, stage names are used for the practitioners. A personal favorite of mine was サDuke, an adaptation of Sir Duke, or “Sa-Duke” using the Japanese phonology.

In my several trips to Sauna Tokyo, each Aufguss experience has been completely different. The music selection ranges from both Western and Japanese music (I even heard anime music on one occasion), providing a Japanese spin on a Sauna tradition originating from Germany. Story telling elements have even been present, with one seeming (from what I could hear in Japanese) to “take place” on a Japan Airlines “Sauna airplane”! I’l save more of the specifics of the experience for my Aufguss article (stay tuned…), but these are just a few examples of the Japanese quirks of Sauna Tokyo.

A sample image of an Aufguss experience (not from Sauna Tokyo)

Saunners

Besides the “Japanese Style” motif found throughout, Sauna Tokyo is clearly made for the diehard sauna fans in mind, or “Saunners” as they are called in Japan.

The visitors guide for the Minato-Ward of Tokyo describes Sauna Tokyo as “a new holy place for Sauna enthusiasts”. Sauna Tokyo’s merchandise line is a great example of the venue’s dedication to the sauna community. Ranging from Sauna hats, clothing items, and figures of Sauna Tokyo’s mascot Totonon, its a seemingly small detail that really took the experience to another level for me.

Sauna Tokyo‘s official Sauna Hat

Additionally, flyers for events around both Sauna Tokyo and the greater Sauna community can be found in the locker room. Ranging from special Aufguss shows to sauna pop-up events around Japan, one gets the sense that Sauna Tokyo holds a place in the Tokyo Sauna community, and despite being open less than a year, wants to be a staple.

Facilities:

Sauna Tokyo’s facilities are some of the best I’ve found in the city, as well as Japan. Among other spaces, the upstairs portion has five saunas. The loyly sauna, the main “hub” sauna of sorts, is massive and seats up to forty people according to Sauna’s Tokyo website (anecdotally, I’ve seen closer to what seems like 50+ packed in during some of the Aufguss shows, which I will explain later). Aside from the Aufguss and special events, the sauna is open for general use, and has an auto loyly mechanism that keeps the sauna at a consistent 96 degrees (205 Fahrenheit).

Just next door to the Loyly sauna is the Meditation Sauna. Aside from the main Loyly sauna with its incredible Aufguss shows, the Meditation Sauna is probably my favorite. Set at a lower temperature with hanging birch leaves on the wall and bird sounds playing in the background, you get the sense of being in the middle of the Finnish countryside without a worry in the world. It’s a great place to take a break from the often-intense hot-cold cycles at Sauna Tokyo.

Across the hall, you can find the self-loyly Kero Sauna, the Super Dry Sauna, and the Cupboard steam room.

The Loyly Kero sauna is set at a medium humidity, medium heat, and uses Kero wood sourced from the Lapland region of Finland. As implied by the name, self loyly* means the heat and humidity in the room is regulated by a self-serve water bucket that can be poured on the stove.

*Loyly refers to the pouring of water on the sauna rocks to heat up the sauna

Super Dry Sauna

Just like the name suggests, this is a high heat, low humidity dry sauna. I don’t care for this one as much, but that comes down mostly to personal preference. Sauna Tokyo’s website describes it as “reminiscent of the Carakara-style high-temperature saunas of the Showa era”.* The sauna has a retro gym sauna feel that may be familiar to anyone coming from a Western country that had a similar type of sauna at their gym or health-club.

*For those unfamiliar, the Showa era refers to Japan’s longest lasting Imperial Era under Emperor Showa. While the era lasted from 1926-1989, it typically refers to 1946-1989. “Showa Japan” is often shorthand for old or retro Japan.

Cupboard Steam Room

This one is super interesting. What at first seems to combine a hot tub and a Turkish steam room, the room is actually inspired by the “cupboard bath” that was popular in Edo period Japan. I loved the concept, and I often start here when I make my way to the upstairs portion of the facility.

Besides the saunas, there are four cooling areas, including a cold sauna and three cold pools. The cold “sauna” (not pictured) is a dry room with fans going and a few chairs. Not much to write home about, but I appreciated the space. The cold pools are set at 8, 15, and 22 degrees (46, 59, and 71 Farenheit). Anecdotally, these each feel much colder than their listed temperatures, and I appreciated the variety of temperatures available.

The upstairs also has a rest area, with space for around 60 people, and serves both Detox Water and Pocari Sweat.

Limitions/shortcomings:

Sauna Tokyo’s largest shortcoming is easily that the facility is, unfortunately, men only. This is a huge disappointment for any female bathers looking to experience this great contemporary piece of Japan’s sauna culture.

The silver lining is that Sauna Tokyo has hosted a few Women’s only nights. However, these are infrequent, so I unfortunately would have to rank a few other facilities higher as my go-to recommendation for Sauna facilities in Tokyo solely because of this.

I don’t factor in whether a venue allows tattoo’s or not into any of my reviews. As tattoo’s in Japan are historically associated with organized crime, I don’t think it is fair to judge it based on that criterion. That being said, I found Sauna Tokyo’s tattoo policy to be a bit…strange……

If you are visiting Sauna Tokyo, you are still allowed to use the facilities. However, you have to pay an additional 500 yen fee. Additionally, you are required to wear a sticker that says “Respect the Rules!” for the duration of your stay. During my several trips, I have seen staff members urgently stop guests, with either one small tattoo or tattooed from head to toe, only to put a 3×5 inch sticker saying “Respect the Rules” on their upper back, and walk away.

It seemed silly, and I’m not sure what the end goal of the policy is. It just seemed strange and unnecessary to me. Like a weird compromise that didn’t solve any prospective issues. It’s not a huge deal (partially becuase I haven’t had to deal with it myself, as I don’t have any tattoos), it just struck me as odd.

Verdict:

Sauna Tokyo is an absolute must visit. If you’re a sauna die-hard like me, you’ll be in heaven. If you’re just curious, you’ll walk out inspired and refreshed. From Kentaro Imai’s brilliant aesthetic choices, to the awe-inspiring Aufguss performances, there’s something for everyone at Sauna Tokyo.

Food Pairing:

For this food paring, I am trying something a little different. I am listing a local recommendation, which is something I would be more inclined to grab a bite at on my way home. My visiting recommendation is designed with tourists/visitors to Japan in mind. It may be slightly further than walking distance, but noteworthy enough to add to a tourist itinerary.

I may implement this into some of my reviews of larger venues, or locations close to particularly noteworthy restaurants (Michelin, major tourist attractions, etc).

Local Recommendation:

Genso Aburado (Maze Soba)

Maze soba has become a go-to post sauna/sento meal for me. And Genso Aburado is conveniently located a block away from Sauna Tokyo! Hosting an extensive spice bar, this maze-soba chain really hits the spot after a long sauna session. The wide variety of options, combined with the comfort-food feeling that a good spice-filled maze-soba bowl provides make Genso Aburado my go-to after Sauna Tokyo.

Visiting Recommendation (Great for Tourists)

Gonpacchi.

I think that Sauna Tokyo is the kind of experience that should be savored. As such, I think having a dinner that leaves an impression is essential for this pairing, particularly if you are visiting Tokyo from outside Japan.

Located about 1.2 km/just under a mile away, Gonpachi famously inspired the ending scene of Kill Bill: Volume 1, where The Bride fights The Crazy 88. While it’s certainly on the touristy side, I think it’s a lot of fun. Also, the staff here are fluent in both Japanese and English, so for travelers, this is particularly worthy of note. The menu is extensive, and you will almost certainly find something to your liking on the menu.

Sento Sensei Reviews

Edo-yu Ryogoku

Minimalist, expansive, focused.

Tatoos Okay? No
Sauna? Yes
Price? $$
Should I Bring Toiletries? No. Price is inclusive of amenities.
Best For? Those looking to take a breather after sightseeing in East Tokyo (Asakusa, Akihabara, Ueno, etc.). Those looking for a high quality super-sento at a lower price point, or something off the beaten path that attracts fewer foreign tourists than other super sento complexes.

Nearest Station? Ryogoku Station (Oedo Line) (1 minute walk), Ryogoku Station (JR Line, 8-10minute walk

The venue Located in Tokyo’s Ryogoku neighborhood, famous for the Kokugikan Sumo stadium, which hosts Japan’s largest sumo tournaments. Edo-yu Ryogoku is an excellent, low-key super sento that provides a large scale Japanese bathing experience without relying on gimmicks that make it feel excessively “touristy”. Let’s take a look at what sets Edo-yu Ryogoku apart as a super sento!

What is a Super Sento?

While I have used the term sparingly in other articles, I would like to pause for a moment to explain what exactly a “super sento” is. In contrast with a regular sento, a super sento is not only larger in size, but is typically marketed as more of a luxury and cultural experience than as a utilitarian public bath. Super sento are often targeted at tourists (both domestic and international), and are more likely to include “spa services” (massage, body scrubs, etc.) and often are themed around aspects of traditional Japanese culture (yukata/traditional Japanese robes are often given out, for example).

To combat the closing of sento around Japan due to the installation of household baths in the 20th century, super sento were introduced as a way to revive sento culture, and became popular in the 1980-1990’s. This sparked what is now referred to as Japan’s second sauna boom (the first being after the 1964 Tokyo Olympics).

While there can be tension between neighborhood sento and super sento (see the description for this sento here), with the former pulling customers away from less flashy neighborhood sento, I find that they are often a blast to visit, and can offer a high quality bathing experience that can coexist with smaller neighborhood venues (see here).

Aesthetics

Edo-Yu Ryogoku has a consistent minimalist motif that is visible throughout the facility. Perhaps the most prominent example of this, nearly every floor has a major portion made of light wood, with white accents nearby. This can be seen from the get-go, with the facility’s entrance demonstrating the same color scheme that is constant throughout.

Minimal and eye-catching without being too distracting, the entrance immediately drew me in

The wood and white motif continues through each of the five floors of the facility, with the inside providing a few nice touches of distinctly Japanese additions. For instance, the primary bathing area’s wall mural appears to be of the famous ukiyo-e (Japanese woodblock carving) Great Wave off Kanagawa. While maintaining the motif presented outside and in the lobby, I found the subtle yet prominent addition of the distinctly Japanese style mural to be an excellent touch without feeling too gaudy, as some tourist attractions/super sento can feel.

“Great Wave off Kanagawa“. I’m sure you’ve seen it in a freshman college dorm somewhere…

Outside of the gender segregated bathing area, there are two primary areas; the relaxation area and the bedrock sauna (which I will cover in the facilities section of this review). The relaxation area maintains the consistent, wood and white motif found in the rest of the facility, while adding wooden windows in the style of a ryokan (Japanese style inn). With areas to nap, work, and read nearby, I found the simple, non-distracting aesthetics of the space to put me at ease while relaxing.

Not pictured: bookstands with Sauna Bros. Magazine (Japan exclusive) and Sado (famous Japanese Sauna manga, literally translating to “Way of the Sauna”). Great place to recharge!

Culture/Vibe

Unlike the previous facilities I have reviewed thus far, Edo-Yu Ryogoku isn’t aimed to serve as a community space, since it is a super sento. With that in mind, I would say that the culture here isn’t as relevant as much as the overall vibe is. In my visits to the venue, I noticed a distinct lack of foreign tourists compared to other super sento (Spa Laqua, Thermae-yu, etc.). I think a part of this was intentional, as it seems more catered to domestic visitors, and has less English/Chinese/Korean signage (but not completely absent) than other super sento in Tokyo. With that in mind, I do think that explains why Edo-yu Ryogoku has more design choices that feel targeted at a Japanese audience. For example, the rest areas felt notably quieter, and had more work spaces and less “spa services” than other super sento I have visited.

Working area found on the gendered floor of each area

I sincerely appreciate how the venue, despite being a large bathing complex, maintains a relaxed atmosphere, and allows me to avoid feeling like I need to get the absolute most out of my experience to get my money’s worth. The relatively low price point (especially if you visit on a weekday/non holiday) helps contribute to this as well.

Edo-yu Ryogoku also had saunners/sauna enthusiasts in mind with several design choices throughout. For instance, above the cold plunge pool, there is a guide with characters from the Sado manga about how to achieve totonou in six steps. While subtle, I found this was a great touch, and I have used the guide at other facilities as well (which itself is worthy of an article).

I unfortunately couldn’t find the guide on the Japanese side of the internet, so here is an image from the original Sado manga of a character achieving totonou (sauna enlightenment)

Another design choice for the sauners, the bathing area features a recommended order of how to use the baths and sauna for optimal effect. It is written in Japanese across one of the walls (not translated into English), and goes into the step-by-step on what is the best order to use the facilities in. I know of only a few venues in various countries that provide this kind of information, but I always appreciate when it is made available. I think it’s a fantastic idea, and I always try and implement it when I visit.

Facilities

The main gendered bathing area hosts five different baths. The indoor portion features a standard heated bath (jetted and non-jetted), a cold plunge pool, and a carbonated bath. The low rise, wide carbonated bath stood out as a highlight for me. Nestled under the Great Wave off Kanagawa mural, I found it to be a great place to warm up before starting any serious sauna endeavors.

There are two saunas adjacent to the bathing area: a Finnish style sauna and a lower temperature sauna (the women’s section swaps this with an aromatic steam room). The Finnish sauna had a nice medium heat, medium humidity maintained throughout my visits (thanks to the auto-loyly, which is the Finnish word water dispensing over the sauna rocks to increase/sustain the heat). It contrasted well with the nearby cold plunge and served its job well. The lower temperature sauna on the mens side was a nice option as well for those who want a less extreme experience, even if I didn’t use it much during my visits.

Edo-yu’s Finnish style sauna, or the “main” sauna

The remaining two baths are in a semi outdoor area (covered canopy, with an open face window toward the ceiling, tucked away in a corner). Closest to the door is the Chinese medicinal bath. Filled with various herbs, you come out of the bath with a distinct yet pleasant earthy smell after a few minutes. Across the room is the open air sleeping bath, filled with what Edo-yu’s website describes as air bubbles that remove dirt from the body. This bath has access to the open air atrium, which I found to be a great contrast on a cold day with the warm resting bath.

Herbal bath on the right, open-air/sleeping bath in the back

One last remaining area that I haven’t discussed is on an entirely separate floor: the bedrock sauna. Similar to a Korean style jjimjilbang (찜질방, for those who can read Korean), the room is referred to as the “Shirishibo”. On the facility’s website, it is described as:

“a room where each person can relax in their own bed space. The “Zakuro-guchi'” (small door) reminiscent of public baths from the Edo period maintains a constant humidity and temperature inside the room. The bedrock is Liaoning stone, which contains a lot of organic germanium.”

The room has a a sleek, black finish to it, and I found it to be a nice middle ground between the lounge area, and the more concentrated bathing and sauna area. I found I enjoyed it the most towards the end of my visits, serving as a nice way to work up a sweat if I didn’t have the stamina to do another extreme hot/cold cycle.

Limitations/shortcomings

Unfortunately for my inked readers, the venue does not allow entry for tattooed visitors. For whatever reason, I have found that super sento (at least in Tokyo) are consistently the most strict about the no tattoo policy (I find that lot of hip smaller sento allow tattoos to attract a younger, urban crowd). I imagine that this is due to more expensive venues wanting to cater to families and provide more of a a “luxury” experience. As such, they take extra precautions to keep Yakuza out. Regardless, if you have tattoos, I would suggest visiting of the numerous tattoo-friendly facilities that I have reviewed.

Additionally, since it is a bit more off the beaten path, I would come with at least a few Japanese phrases prepared, as the facility isn’t really set up with a lot of English infrastructure. That said, the staff is incredibly helpful. I don’t consider this a demerit by any means (this is in Japan after all), but just something to consider before you go if this is a dealbreaker, or you are planning on swapping this in place of a super sento that is more accessible for first time visitors.

Verdict:

Edo-yu Ryogoku has a cultivated minimalist vibe, while simultaneously providing the most out of its bathing, sauna, and lounge facilities. Giving a more concentrated experience, I would recomend Edo-yu Ryogoku for someone who enjoyed a first trip to a super sento, and is curious about making steps towards exploring more of Japan’s sauna culture outside of the general English speaking tourist circuit, but isn’t sure where to go next. Regardless of your reasons for visiting, you certainly won’t regret it.

Food Pairing:

Tonkatsu Hasegawa.

Located near JR Ryogoku Station (roughly a ten minute walk from the venue), this restaurant is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. The aforementioned list covers restaurants that the Michelin Guide recognizes as high quality, and more budget friendly than its Michelin Star counterparts (a general travel tip I would give for anyone visitng Tokyo as well).

I had to wait around 30 minutes to secure a table, but the food was absolutely worth the wait. With an extra crispy coating and a high quality, fatty cut of pork, my taste buds were happy with every second that I waited in line.

For 1800 yen (a little over $12.50 USD), I was able to get a full Tonkatsu set with a side salad, miso, tea, and two vegetable sides. In my view, very well worth it for a Michelin recognized meal.

Authors Note: Much like a wine pairing with a good meal, I find that finding the right bite to eat after a sento/sauna session to help make my totonou/sauna high that much more euphoric. As such, I am considering adding a food pairing suggestion as a staple of my reviews if this is received well, or something readers would be interested in.

Thank you all for reading, I wish you a Merry Christmas. Happy Holidays, and hope you can make the time to find a piece of “tototnou” in your week!