Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

An Introduction to Aufguss: A German Sauna ritual finding new life in Japan

Imagine. One moment, you are sitting in the sauna, quietly enjoying your session. All of a sudden, the heat intensifies. You look up and see flashing lights, a moving towel diffusing essential oils throughout the sauna, and all of this is done in sync to awe inspiring music. Only half-sure of what I was getting myself into, little did I know that I would soon become obsessed with this small ritual within the already specific niche Japanese sauna culture. This is Aufguss.

What is Aufguss?

If I were to sum up Aufguss, I would describe it as such:

The ceremony of towel waving to diffuse essential oils throughout the sauna, often to music, with the aim of providing the audience with an intense heating experience that is often fused with artistic elements (coordinated towel waving to music, flashing lights, etc.).

To provide more clarity, I will also provide a definition that I really liked from Martjin Vanhoorelbelke, a two-time Aufguss World Champion finalist, taken from an excerpt found on Brooklyn sauna Bathhouse‘s website:

“Aufguss is a sauna ritual lasting about 15 minutes. It’s a multi-sensory experience inside the sauna. The Aufguss master works with water to circulate heat throughout the sauna with a towel. The core elements of an Aufguss are heat, essential oils and music.”

Vanhoorebelke then describes the goal of Aufguss as:

“To take you on a trip. It’s about having an experience that extracts the benefits of a sauna session and heightens them: elevated levels of endorphins and serotonin. Additionally, different essential oils can be utilized for different outcomes. For instance, peppermint can be used as a revitalizing oil, lavender for calm, and eucalyptus to clear the airways.”

Beautifully put. Better than I could have myself.

Aufguss in Japan

While Aufguss originates from Germany, it has gained popularity in Japan amidst the ongoing sauna boom. In Tokyo, many of the more reputable sauna/sento host regular Aufguss nights, with slots often booking out several hours in advance. Some of the top saunas even have their own teams that host elaborate Aufguss shows, many of which are used at “Aufguss Championship Japan”, Japan’s Aufguss national tournament.

At the national tournament, Aufguss performances are evaluated based on the following criteria:

  1. Professionalism
  2. Heat rise and distribution
  3. Fan technique [using the towel]
  4. How to use and amount of fragrance
  5. Theme and show structure
  6. Judge’s personal evaluation
  7. Team Spirit (groups only)

(translated using Google)

Teams and individuals that win move on to the World Aufguss Championship to compete on the international stage.

Competitive Aufguss performances are typically centered around a motif, such as a song or story that set the mood for the session. For example, This performer (one I have seen at Sauna Tokyo and is an excellent practitioner) has submitted an entry for the Aufguss Championship Japan for this year, and will use the song “Piano Man” as the centerpiece for his performance.

To give another distinct example, I’ll share a submission that really caught my eye. Along with a submitted image that looked like it was taken on a flip phone/potato, the only information for the performance listed is “Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone”. While music can certainly be a driving component in Aufguss, other components like storytelling can also define the Aufguss session. I have to say, I’m quite curious how Harry Potter fits into this, and may have to report back to you all on this if I ever get the chance to find out…

Japan has become a force to be reckoned with in the international Aufguss community, with Yuma Kurokawa & Mayuka Sano from Wellbe Sauna in Nagoya winning the Team Competition category in 2023. Japan’s entrance on the global Aufguss stage has increasingly led to more and more Sauna creating Aufguss teams and programs. Seeing the innovation and creative energies surrounding Aufguss is incredibly exciting, and its inclusion at any given facility is always a highlight at any venue I visit.

From Sky Spa Yokohama, an Aufguss venue that is very high on my to-visit list!

Where can I Experience Aufguss in Tokyo?

Want to try Aufguss on your next trip to Japan, but not sure where to look? Fear not! With Aufguss taking the Japanese sauna world by storm, it can be found at many sauna throughout Japan! Since the majority of my sauna expertise is in the Tokyo area, all of my recommendations will be exclusively for Tokyo.

  • Sauna Tokyo
    • At the time of writing this post, this is easily my top recommendation for experiencing Aufguss in Tokyo. Every couple of hours, you are guaranteed to see a top-notch Aufguss show in their sauna outfitted for 50 people.
    • The aufguss practitioners are listed outside of the main sauna, and rotate every hour, so you have lots of opportunities to see different styles of Aufguss in one place.
    • I will go into more detail on Sauna Tokyo’s Aufguss experience in the next section, but to sum it up: Sauna Tokyo is an accessible, high quality way to see Aufguss that I can recommend to anyone.
  • Shibuya Saunas
    • Recognized as a top sauna team that has competed at the Japan Aufguss Championship, this is on the top of my list for Aufguss that I want to check out next. Unfortunately, their Aufguss offerings are somewhat random and are not on a set schedule. It has not been offered on my last two trips here, but online I only hear great things (on the Japanese side of the internet).
    • Regardless, even if Aufguss isn’t offered during your trip, I can highly recommend this facility (review to come at a later date)
  • Spa Laqua
    • Located right by the Tokyo Dome, this is an excellent option if you are looking for a super sento that also offers quality Aufguss sessions.
  • Sky Spa Yokohama
    • Along with Shibuya Saunas, this is on the top of my list for Aufguss that I want to experience. Much like Shibuya Saunas, Sky Spa Yokohama has sent several contestants to the Japan Aufguss National Championship, and regularly is listed as a go-to destination for Aufguss. I still haven’t paid Sky Spa Yokohama a visit, and it’s one of the facilities I am most excited to check out!
  • Sauna and Hotel Karumaru
    • A more low-key option, Aufguss is offered every few hours in their stone sauna. Similar to Spa Laqua’s Aufguss, less performative than Sauna Tokyo, but still done by quality practitioners. Karumaru also has an attached capsule hotel, so if you are looking to bundle your lodging and Aufguss options into one, this is a great choice.

My Aufguss Experience with a Japan National Champion

Flyer for the Aufguss event that I attended

While I have been to several Aufguss shows around Tokyo, I had the opportunity (and paid a little extra) to see the 2022 All Japan Aufguss Champion at Sauna Tokyo. While I have been to several impressive Aufguss shows, this one particularly left an impression. To give a taste of the heights of Japanese Aufguss, here is a narrative account of my experience:

After inquiring at the front desk two hours in advance about the Aufguss event, I was given a number (35 out of the 46 person capacity), and was instructed to line up outside the main Loyly sauna five minutes before to prepare.

Jam-packed to its full 46 person capacity (I suspect there were a few more than 50 in reality), the staff strategically placed several conspicuous looking tools near the sauna stove, including an ice block, a speaker, and several essential-oil diffused buckets of water prior to the start of the performance.

Kicking things off, a series of lights turned on and immediately dimmed to a cool blue, then to red. Then, a Japan Airlines announcement cued on the speaker system, with the Aufguss champion emerging in a Flight Attendant Uniform. Announcing in time with the airline announcement, she followed with (in Japanese) “Welcome to the Sauna Airlines! Please locate the emergency exit and enjoy your flight!”. For the next several minutes, classical music played, with ice blocks being melted on top of the center sauna stove in time with the music. A nice warm breeze, relaxing, but not scorching intermittently spread around the room for several minutes.

All of a sudden, red lights started crashing. “Everyone! Everyone! The plane is crashing! The plane is crashing! We are in danger!!!” Immediately following, “Danger Zone” by Kenny Loggins starts to play over the speakers (yes- the one from Top Gun), and the Aufguss practitioner starts to take things up a notch. The towel waves increase in intensity, the collective atmosphere was filled with excitement and awe. As the guitar solo hit, the practitioner started performing one-handed towel spins that went behind the back and thrown mid-air. The audience started to clap to the rhythm, giving the atmosphere more akin to a rowdy sporting event than a “spa day”. This was the point where I had to look at the fifty other naked individuals wearing pointy sauna hats clapping in sync and remind myself that I had not joined a cult.

After the performance concluded, the audience gave a hearty round of applause, and nearly the entire crowd rushed into the nearby cold plunge pools for a much needed cool-off.

A follow up show the next hour included other members of Sauna Tokyo’s Aufguss team. Perhaps the most inventive idea I’ve seen in an Aufguss performance, one performer had a small handheld leaf blower, and used it to help diffuse the heat around the sauna. Backed by the soundtrack from the anime “Death Note”, the practitioner stated (in Japanese) “I am fear! I am fear!” (from what I could translate in my head), and moved the heat around to those with their hands up requesting more heat.

Needless to say, the Aufguss experience at Sauna Tokyo was exhilarating, awe inspiring, and unlike anything I had ever experienced.

Conclusion

While I could write about Aufguss at further length, its appeal is (perhaps even more so than sauna and bathing) difficult to encapsulate with words, and best experienced. If you want to level up your sauna experience, or want to experience a uniquely Japanese take on a tradition with its origins elsewhere (something Japan excels at), give Aufguss a try!

Thank you so much for reading! More content is on the way after a small hiatus, so please stay tuned!

Sento Sensei Reviews

Edo-yu Ryogoku

Minimalist, expansive, focused.

Tatoos Okay? No
Sauna? Yes
Price? $$
Should I Bring Toiletries? No. Price is inclusive of amenities.
Best For? Those looking to take a breather after sightseeing in East Tokyo (Asakusa, Akihabara, Ueno, etc.). Those looking for a high quality super-sento at a lower price point, or something off the beaten path that attracts fewer foreign tourists than other super sento complexes.

Nearest Station? Ryogoku Station (Oedo Line) (1 minute walk), Ryogoku Station (JR Line, 8-10minute walk

The venue Located in Tokyo’s Ryogoku neighborhood, famous for the Kokugikan Sumo stadium, which hosts Japan’s largest sumo tournaments. Edo-yu Ryogoku is an excellent, low-key super sento that provides a large scale Japanese bathing experience without relying on gimmicks that make it feel excessively “touristy”. Let’s take a look at what sets Edo-yu Ryogoku apart as a super sento!

What is a Super Sento?

While I have used the term sparingly in other articles, I would like to pause for a moment to explain what exactly a “super sento” is. In contrast with a regular sento, a super sento is not only larger in size, but is typically marketed as more of a luxury and cultural experience than as a utilitarian public bath. Super sento are often targeted at tourists (both domestic and international), and are more likely to include “spa services” (massage, body scrubs, etc.) and often are themed around aspects of traditional Japanese culture (yukata/traditional Japanese robes are often given out, for example).

To combat the closing of sento around Japan due to the installation of household baths in the 20th century, super sento were introduced as a way to revive sento culture, and became popular in the 1980-1990’s. This sparked what is now referred to as Japan’s second sauna boom (the first being after the 1964 Tokyo Olympics).

While there can be tension between neighborhood sento and super sento (see the description for this sento here), with the former pulling customers away from less flashy neighborhood sento, I find that they are often a blast to visit, and can offer a high quality bathing experience that can coexist with smaller neighborhood venues (see here).

Aesthetics

Edo-Yu Ryogoku has a consistent minimalist motif that is visible throughout the facility. Perhaps the most prominent example of this, nearly every floor has a major portion made of light wood, with white accents nearby. This can be seen from the get-go, with the facility’s entrance demonstrating the same color scheme that is constant throughout.

Minimal and eye-catching without being too distracting, the entrance immediately drew me in

The wood and white motif continues through each of the five floors of the facility, with the inside providing a few nice touches of distinctly Japanese additions. For instance, the primary bathing area’s wall mural appears to be of the famous ukiyo-e (Japanese woodblock carving) Great Wave off Kanagawa. While maintaining the motif presented outside and in the lobby, I found the subtle yet prominent addition of the distinctly Japanese style mural to be an excellent touch without feeling too gaudy, as some tourist attractions/super sento can feel.

“Great Wave off Kanagawa“. I’m sure you’ve seen it in a freshman college dorm somewhere…

Outside of the gender segregated bathing area, there are two primary areas; the relaxation area and the bedrock sauna (which I will cover in the facilities section of this review). The relaxation area maintains the consistent, wood and white motif found in the rest of the facility, while adding wooden windows in the style of a ryokan (Japanese style inn). With areas to nap, work, and read nearby, I found the simple, non-distracting aesthetics of the space to put me at ease while relaxing.

Not pictured: bookstands with Sauna Bros. Magazine (Japan exclusive) and Sado (famous Japanese Sauna manga, literally translating to “Way of the Sauna”). Great place to recharge!

Culture/Vibe

Unlike the previous facilities I have reviewed thus far, Edo-Yu Ryogoku isn’t aimed to serve as a community space, since it is a super sento. With that in mind, I would say that the culture here isn’t as relevant as much as the overall vibe is. In my visits to the venue, I noticed a distinct lack of foreign tourists compared to other super sento (Spa Laqua, Thermae-yu, etc.). I think a part of this was intentional, as it seems more catered to domestic visitors, and has less English/Chinese/Korean signage (but not completely absent) than other super sento in Tokyo. With that in mind, I do think that explains why Edo-yu Ryogoku has more design choices that feel targeted at a Japanese audience. For example, the rest areas felt notably quieter, and had more work spaces and less “spa services” than other super sento I have visited.

Working area found on the gendered floor of each area

I sincerely appreciate how the venue, despite being a large bathing complex, maintains a relaxed atmosphere, and allows me to avoid feeling like I need to get the absolute most out of my experience to get my money’s worth. The relatively low price point (especially if you visit on a weekday/non holiday) helps contribute to this as well.

Edo-yu Ryogoku also had saunners/sauna enthusiasts in mind with several design choices throughout. For instance, above the cold plunge pool, there is a guide with characters from the Sado manga about how to achieve totonou in six steps. While subtle, I found this was a great touch, and I have used the guide at other facilities as well (which itself is worthy of an article).

I unfortunately couldn’t find the guide on the Japanese side of the internet, so here is an image from the original Sado manga of a character achieving totonou (sauna enlightenment)

Another design choice for the sauners, the bathing area features a recommended order of how to use the baths and sauna for optimal effect. It is written in Japanese across one of the walls (not translated into English), and goes into the step-by-step on what is the best order to use the facilities in. I know of only a few venues in various countries that provide this kind of information, but I always appreciate when it is made available. I think it’s a fantastic idea, and I always try and implement it when I visit.

Facilities

The main gendered bathing area hosts five different baths. The indoor portion features a standard heated bath (jetted and non-jetted), a cold plunge pool, and a carbonated bath. The low rise, wide carbonated bath stood out as a highlight for me. Nestled under the Great Wave off Kanagawa mural, I found it to be a great place to warm up before starting any serious sauna endeavors.

There are two saunas adjacent to the bathing area: a Finnish style sauna and a lower temperature sauna (the women’s section swaps this with an aromatic steam room). The Finnish sauna had a nice medium heat, medium humidity maintained throughout my visits (thanks to the auto-loyly, which is the Finnish word water dispensing over the sauna rocks to increase/sustain the heat). It contrasted well with the nearby cold plunge and served its job well. The lower temperature sauna on the mens side was a nice option as well for those who want a less extreme experience, even if I didn’t use it much during my visits.

Edo-yu’s Finnish style sauna, or the “main” sauna

The remaining two baths are in a semi outdoor area (covered canopy, with an open face window toward the ceiling, tucked away in a corner). Closest to the door is the Chinese medicinal bath. Filled with various herbs, you come out of the bath with a distinct yet pleasant earthy smell after a few minutes. Across the room is the open air sleeping bath, filled with what Edo-yu’s website describes as air bubbles that remove dirt from the body. This bath has access to the open air atrium, which I found to be a great contrast on a cold day with the warm resting bath.

Herbal bath on the right, open-air/sleeping bath in the back

One last remaining area that I haven’t discussed is on an entirely separate floor: the bedrock sauna. Similar to a Korean style jjimjilbang (찜질방, for those who can read Korean), the room is referred to as the “Shirishibo”. On the facility’s website, it is described as:

“a room where each person can relax in their own bed space. The “Zakuro-guchi'” (small door) reminiscent of public baths from the Edo period maintains a constant humidity and temperature inside the room. The bedrock is Liaoning stone, which contains a lot of organic germanium.”

The room has a a sleek, black finish to it, and I found it to be a nice middle ground between the lounge area, and the more concentrated bathing and sauna area. I found I enjoyed it the most towards the end of my visits, serving as a nice way to work up a sweat if I didn’t have the stamina to do another extreme hot/cold cycle.

Limitations/shortcomings

Unfortunately for my inked readers, the venue does not allow entry for tattooed visitors. For whatever reason, I have found that super sento (at least in Tokyo) are consistently the most strict about the no tattoo policy (I find that lot of hip smaller sento allow tattoos to attract a younger, urban crowd). I imagine that this is due to more expensive venues wanting to cater to families and provide more of a a “luxury” experience. As such, they take extra precautions to keep Yakuza out. Regardless, if you have tattoos, I would suggest visiting of the numerous tattoo-friendly facilities that I have reviewed.

Additionally, since it is a bit more off the beaten path, I would come with at least a few Japanese phrases prepared, as the facility isn’t really set up with a lot of English infrastructure. That said, the staff is incredibly helpful. I don’t consider this a demerit by any means (this is in Japan after all), but just something to consider before you go if this is a dealbreaker, or you are planning on swapping this in place of a super sento that is more accessible for first time visitors.

Verdict:

Edo-yu Ryogoku has a cultivated minimalist vibe, while simultaneously providing the most out of its bathing, sauna, and lounge facilities. Giving a more concentrated experience, I would recomend Edo-yu Ryogoku for someone who enjoyed a first trip to a super sento, and is curious about making steps towards exploring more of Japan’s sauna culture outside of the general English speaking tourist circuit, but isn’t sure where to go next. Regardless of your reasons for visiting, you certainly won’t regret it.

Food Pairing:

Tonkatsu Hasegawa.

Located near JR Ryogoku Station (roughly a ten minute walk from the venue), this restaurant is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. The aforementioned list covers restaurants that the Michelin Guide recognizes as high quality, and more budget friendly than its Michelin Star counterparts (a general travel tip I would give for anyone visitng Tokyo as well).

I had to wait around 30 minutes to secure a table, but the food was absolutely worth the wait. With an extra crispy coating and a high quality, fatty cut of pork, my taste buds were happy with every second that I waited in line.

For 1800 yen (a little over $12.50 USD), I was able to get a full Tonkatsu set with a side salad, miso, tea, and two vegetable sides. In my view, very well worth it for a Michelin recognized meal.

Authors Note: Much like a wine pairing with a good meal, I find that finding the right bite to eat after a sento/sauna session to help make my totonou/sauna high that much more euphoric. As such, I am considering adding a food pairing suggestion as a staple of my reviews if this is received well, or something readers would be interested in.

Thank you all for reading, I wish you a Merry Christmas. Happy Holidays, and hope you can make the time to find a piece of “tototnou” in your week!

Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

Saunachelin (yes…. really!)

Most people are familiar with Michelin Stars, the most sought after restaurant accolade in the world. You may not be familiar with, however, Saunachelin stars!

Taking full advantage of Japan’s sauna boom, Saunachelin has ranked the eleven most outstanding saunas across Japan every year since 2018! Let’s take a look at what it takes to earn a Saunachelin star.

Who is Behind Saunachelin?

When stumbling upon Saunechelin, I couldn’t help but think “who came up with such a brilliant idea?”.

The Japanese sauna organization TTNE are the minds behind Saunachelin. The organization’s name is an abbreviation for the Japanese word “totonou” (ととのう), which refers to the state of temporary enlightenment and peace achieved by several rounds of alternating between hot and cold.

In 2017, TTNE was founded Dai Matsuo (松尾 大) and Daisuke Akiyama (秋山 大輔). Founding TTNE as a brand specifically for sauna culture, Matsuo and Akiyama sought out to create a space for sauna enthusiasts (particularly in their 20-30’s) to embrace and spread sauna culture within Japan. Through their collaboration, the two bring their experiences from the corporate world to their endeavors in the sauna sphere. As a part of TTNE, the two have founded not only Saunachelin, but established “The Sauna Society of Japan”, “Sauna FES Japan”, launched a sauna-apparel line, and served as brand ambassadors for Finnish sauna brand “Harvia”. Taking a look at the various projects the two are involved in, their enthusiasm for sauna is palpable, and is clearly a major factor behind TTNE’s success. I found the following quote from the TTNE website to really sell the company’s passion and vision for sauna in Japan:

“Surfers have a brand of surfers,
Skaters have a skater brand.
Sauna brand for sauna …”

Today, TTNE has several offices (two in Tokyo, one in Sapporo), and has eighteen employees listed on their website. I have found that the majority of sauna related events around Tokyo are in some way affiliated with TTNE. If you are ever curious about what is happening in the Japanese sauna world, looking at any of TTNE’s projects will likely put you in the right direction.

Annual Rankings

Each year on November 11th, also known as “Totonou Day”, Saunechelin announces its 11 top saunas in Japan. To make the cut, a venue has to stand out among the 12,000 other sauna across Japan to be considered innovative or noteworthy in the world of sauna.

To see what I mean, let’s take a look at a few of this year’s winner’s for 2023:

  • Sauna Tokyo (サウナ東京)
    • “The largest sauna facility in Kanto [the greater Tokyo area], opened in Asakusa. [It has] five types of saunas and three temperatures of baths”
      • Many of these facilities, such as its steam room with a “cupboard bath” inside, take inspiration from traditional Japanese culture and the Edo period.
    • “The main sauna “Steam Dance’”, which automatically controls lighting, sound, and 6 special speakers and woofers and is compatible with the Aufguss [the process of diffusing essential oil throughout the sauna, often done in a flashy manner with a towel] show, is full of power. It’s amazing that it’s not just flashy, but also comfortable, with the introduction of a ‘CO2 concentration automatic detection ventilation system’ that automatically controls ventilation using AI.”
      • Frankly, I’m not entirely sure what all of the specific jargon refers to here, but I found it demonstrates the kind of specificity that Saunachelin venues have in their spaces.
        • Quoted portions are translated from Japanese using Google
  • Annetai Sauna (亜熱帯サウナ)
    • “A sauna in the jungle, owner Tetsuji Sakamoto was moved by a garden spa that utilized an entire mountain that he came across in Thailand, and based on that experience, created Annetai Sauna. Enjoy an outdoor bath surrounded by subtropical nature.”
      • Translated from Japanese using Google
  • Wellbe Sakae (ウェルビー栄)
    • “We recreate the environment of Finland, the home of saunas, with a `Forest Sauna’ that resembles a sauna hut in the forest, and an `Ice Sauna’ where you can experience the cool outside air (minus 25 degrees Celsius) and a lake.”
      • Translated from Japanese using Google

As seen above, Saunachelin winners consistently outperform by both refining and innovating their sauna experience in ways that push the boundaries of Sauna culture in Japan.

Saunner Of the Year

In addition to ranking the top saunas, Saunachelin also celebrates outstanding contributors to Sauna culture in Japan, commonly referred to as “Saunners”.

For example, some of the 2023 nominees include:

  • Katsuki Tanaka
    • Manga author and creator of “Sado” (literally translates to “Way of the Sauna) (サ道).
    • The series (which I am yet to read, unfortunately) follows the main character’s visits to a local gym sauna, where he discovers the joys of sauna and makes lasting friendships through the power of sauna (as you do). Sado is often attributed as one of the driving factors of the sauna boom in Japan (a topic for a later date).
  • Misato Shimizu
    • Japanese actress who is also a huge “saunner” herself. She has frequently worked with popular sauna website “Sauna Ikitai” (literally meaning “Let’s Go to the Sauna), and has been on several radio shows and interviews discussing sauna in Japan.
  • Jin’s Co LTD
    • An eyewear company with a line of glasses specifically designed for use in the sauna. Heat and fog resistant, this product line is a great example of the kinds of unique sauna merchandise that are coming out of Japan right now.

The list goes on, but essentially, candidates are not limited to those working in the sauna industry, and can be awarded to anyone who advances and contributes to sauna culture in Japan.

Closing Thoughts

While Saunachelin seems almost too good to be true, in Japan, it is a highly respected accolade that reflects the nation’s booming sauna culture. I regularly refer to Saunechelin not only find new venues to visit, but also to gain insights into contributors in the Japanese sauna world.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s dive into Japanese sauna culture. Have a great week, and I hope you can find some “totonou” in your week!