From the minds behind the smash-hist Sento “Kogane-yu”, a brand new Sento themed brewery!
This post covers my visit to the newly opened Sento brewery “Bathe Yotsume”. Affiliated with nearby Sento Kogane-Yu, I have been excited to check it out ever since I saw the opening notice on my most recent Kogane-Yu visit. Let’s dive into what my first impressions were!
*Author’s note: This isn’t my usual “review of sorts”. I have a more methodical process I use for my reviews, including several visits and certain criterion. This post just covers my visit and a few of my initial thoughts. With that in mind, please enjoy!
BATHE: Yotsume Brewery
My beer at BATHE (this one is an IPA).
For those who haven’t read my review (click here), “Kogane-yu” is a trailblazing Sauna and Sento in East Tokyo near the Tokyo Skytree. Once a dying bath house, it now has two hour plus long waits to use its’ outdoor cold plunge pool, cutting edge Sauna, and craft beer selections with a DJ carefully curating the vinyl selection in the lobby.
Today, “Kogane-yu “is also affliated with nearby “Daikoku-yu”, another recently revived Sento in Sumida-ku (about a ten minute walk from “Kogane-yu”). With the popularity of both venues taking off, a successful crowdfunding initiative to establish a Sento-themed brewery has led to the creation of BATHE.
Entrance Sign for BATHE
Located about half way between “Kogane-Yu” and the Tokyo Skytree, BATHE is located on an unassuming one way street off of a main road facing Oshiage Station. I was instantly struck by how minimalist the entrance was, using a similar concrete motif as “Kogane-Yu” that wouldn’t feel out of place in Brooklyn, New York. Leading up to the bar, one can see a neon “BATHE IN BEER” sign, as well as the actual brewing portion of BATHE.
Upon entering, I went ahead and asked the bartender what they suggested and ordered their recommendation. After grabbing my drink, I took a look around and soaked in the atmosphere (pun intended).
View from my seat
I was immediately struck with how new the space felt. BATHE has only been open for a month, so combined with how clean everything was, I felt like I was still at a soft launch for the venue. The main sights to see included the DJ booth (much like the one at “Kogane-yu”), the brewing area, and the bar itself.
The DJ booth had records playing throughout my visit. During my time there, a mixture of a Blondie album and a Japanese artist that I hadn’t heard of played. Above the DJ booth, you can spot a picture of “Kogane-yu”. I have to admit, it felt a little bizarre to be in a nearly empty space and just see a DJ booth with a picture of a public bath above it. Nonetheless, I appreciated it.
You can also spot a few other pictures of the bath around the brewery in some of the seating areas. It almost felt like visiting a character’s house in a video game, while the character isn’t at home. A bit like someone is missing, but after a minute, you shrug it off and enjoy the moment.
Pictured: Pools from Kogane-yu
Minus the seating areas and DJ booth, the bar takes up the most space in the facility. Sleek and minimal with a nice marble finish and a visible menu on display, I found the bar to be approachable and conveniently located. During my visit, I tried the Forest Weizen and the Shower IPA. The first drink (disclaimer, I like an occassional beer, but I’m certainly not a big drinker or beer connoisseur by any means) was well made, but not within my usual palette for a beer. I enjoyed my second drink, the Shower IPA a bit more. It tasted like a standard, American West Coast IPA (closer to what I have on the occasions when I do drink).
From my understanding, the beers on tap at BATHE are also the ones available at Kogane-yu, minus a few additions. The beer “was developed as the craft beer most suitable for after a bath”, which I thought was a really cool concept. While I did sento earlier on the day of my visit, it was several hours afterwards, and not at nearby “Kogane-yu”. I will have to revisit in the near future with this in mind.
A few of BATHE’s tasting options
After finishing my second beer, I thanked the bartender and let them know I was excited about the brewery’s opening, and left.
Final Thoughts?
Overall, I enjoyed BATHE. The staff was friendly, the beer was decent, and I sincerely appreciated the concept behind BATHE. It did feel a bit empty, but considering that the venue received extensive crowdfunding online, I don’t think this will be the case for long. If I have any critiques, it’s just that it might take a few weeks or months for BATHE to fully settle into its vibe. It has a lot of potential, and I think they are going in the right direction.
If you are by the Tokyo Skytree, or visiting a Sento in Sumida-ku/Kinshicho area (Kogane-yu, Daikoku-yu, Mikoku-yu, etc.), I would recommend visiting for anyone who is curious! I had a lot of fun visiting, and hope that BATHE sticks around!
Overtime, finding new Sento and/or sauna to visit can become a challenge. Once you get past a few “Top Three Sento for your visit to Tokyo!!!” articles, navigating further options can be daunting, especially if you can’t read Japanese.
That’s where Sauna Ikitai (litreally translating to “Let’s Go to the Sauna!”) comes in. Perhaps one of the more ingenious creations to come out of Japan’s ongoing Sauna boom, Sauna Ikitai serves as a sauna database logging almost every sauna facility in Japan. Let’s take a look at what that entails, and how to use Sauna Ikitai.
*Author’s Note: This article uses Google Translate extensively. For the purposes of this post and providing images of the web pages that were not originally in English, I decided that using Google’s Translate feature to generate English language versions of the pages would be the best fit for the article. All features of Sauna Ikitai are designed for use in Japanese. Please keep that in mind when you see any translations that may look a bit strange.
Sauna Ikitai Home Page
The Primary Functions of Sauna Ikitai are (as listed on its website):
Easy to access Sauna database
The most common use, and the feature I take the most advantage of. Sauna Ikitai logs over 5,000 sauna (and counting) across Japan, and is the resource for finding information on nearly any given sauna in Japan.
Information provided includes (but not limited to):
Sauna and cold bath temperatures
Sauna auto-heating mechanism time intervals (known as “auto loyly”)(ex. automatically heats every ten minutes)
Serving as a community space for sauna enthusiasts (known in Japan as Saunners). Concretely, this is done in two ways: community message boards on the site, as well as Sauna Ikitai’s presence at in-person events.
Online: You can create an account that allows you to log which sauna facilities you have visited, as well as leave written reviews for facilities. It even has a system similar to Reddit Gold, in which the Finish sauna deity “Tontou” gives you “gold” in exchange for your good deeds (leaving reviews, engaging with the community, etc).
Offline: Sauna Ikitai supports in person events. Sauna Ikitai members even get perks at certain saunas, such as a free Pocari Sweat (for those unfamiliar, Pocari Sweat is Japan’s equivalent of Gatorade) or small piece of merchandise. Not too shabby!
What can I use it for?
Looking at Sauna Ikitai’s homepage can be a little intimidating, especially if you can’t read Japanese. I’ll break down its core functions that I use, so you can get some ideas on how it might best suit your needs. A lot of the Google Translations are fairly egregious, (Sauna Ikitai regularly gets translated as Sauna Nike Thailand), so I have gone through with my limited kanji knowledge and sorted through each page.
As a Sauna Database
This is the feature that I use Sauna Ikitai the most for. Here’s how I like to utilize it to find the top rated Sauna in my area
Starting at the Sauna Ikitai Home Page, select the middle button above the search bar (please refer to the picture of the Sauna Ikitai Home Page above).
Using Google Translate, select which area/prefecture you would like to visit (for this example, I will use Tokyo Prefecture).
Author’s note: If you are searching in a larger metropolitan area (Greater Tokyo, Kansai Region, etc.), keep in mind that you may need to select multiple Prefectures to best optimize your results. For instance, Yokohama, Japan’s second largest city and host of a Saunachelin winner, is not included in the Tokyo listing, despite it being 30 minutes away from Downtown Tokyo by train.
A list of Sauna’s in your selected prefecture(s) will pop up on your screen. The default sorting will be by the most popular, but you can sort by other categories, including by highest or lowest sauna/cold plunge temperatures, highest rated by each gender, and more.
Please note that Sauna Ikitai only includes facilities that have saunas. Many otherwise great facilities that only have baths are not included on Sauna Ikitai.
Your end result should look something like the above picture. Mine is translated into English for the purposes of this article, but the page looks a bit cleaner in its native Japanese.
As a Community
Sauna Ikitai has several components that allow you to interact with other sauna lovers (saunners) around Japan.
Logging Saunas and leaving reviews
If you look at the above picture of the “Sauna Search Result List”, there are two words with numbers following the Sauna listings on the right hand side of the page: “Ikitai” and “Sa-Katsu”
“Ikitai” loosely translates here to ” Let’s Go”. Here, this is used to demonstrate that you have went to the listed sauna.
“Sa-katsu” here is a bit tricky to translate, but I believe it means “Sauna Life”, with “サ” standing for the “sa” in “Sauna” in Katakana (one of the two Japanese phoenetic alphabets, most commonly used for foreign loanwords), and “Katsu” coming for the Kanji “活”, for “Life. This is the review section of Sauna Ikitai, where users can share their experiences at the sauna. While all in Japanese, I really enjoy reading from time to time to gain insight into how the sauna community interacts with the venues they visit.
Translation of How to Use Sakatsu from Sauna Ikitai (Translated using Google)
Tontou!
Similar to Reddit’s “Gold” feature where users gain points for doing good deeds, Tontou does the same for Sauna Ikitai users with the help of Tontu! Accruing Tontu allows you to enter lotteries to win various goods from Sauna Ikitai.
You may be asking “who is Tontou?”. Tontu is a sauna Elf with its origins in Finnish folklore that looks after sauna goers, and rewards those who uphold sauna etiquette, and punishes those who are disrespectful of the sauna. I promise, I’m not making this up. You can find more info on the Finnish Wikipedia page here .
I found my Google translation to be particularly entertaining….
In the spirit of Tontu, Sauna Ikitai users earn Tontu by adding value for other users on the platform. This can be done by adding information to the page of a given sauna that has missing information (or better yet, adding a facility that isn’t yet on Sauna Ikitai), sharing about your experience, or attending in-person Sauna Ikitai events.
Earning Tontu!
Using in Sauna Ikitai in Person (!)
If you don’t speak Japanese, this probably won’t be super applicable, but I thought it would be interesting to share that it exits! Sauna Ikitai members often get certain benefits at venues partnered at Sauna Ikitai. While normally small, these can include:
A free towel rental
Free Sauna Hat rental
Free Pocari Sweat (for those unfamiliar, think Japanese Gatorade) or drink
Not anything major, but a lot of nice little boosts!
Additionally, using Tontu can earn you free merchandise, and even Sauna visits! Accrued Tontu can be spent in Sauna Ikitai’s Tontu Lottery. The lottery options often include merchandise (sauna hats, stickers, sauna mats, etc.), free entry, and complimentary food/drink vouchers.
Some of the Tontu Lottery options for January 2024.
User Guide- Using your Sauna Ikitai Account
If you either live in Japan, or are particularly interested in the sauna community in Japan, you can create an account on Sauna Ikitai! For privacy purposes, I won’t be sharing my profile, but I will show you what I have found having an account as useful for:
Logging visited Sauna
I visit enough sauna that it becomes hard to keep track at a certain point, especially if I visit several in the same area that use the same kanji. That’s where Sauna Ikitai comes in. I can check back on which sauna I’ve visited based on the pictures provided, which really comes in handy for when I want to revisit a sauna that I can’t remember the name of.
Tontu
Having an account allows you to accrue Tontu, which you can use to enter the Tontu lottery. I have started to build up a bit, and am very excited to potentially earn some rewards!
Updating Profile Information
There are several fun pieces of information you can put on your Sauna Ikitai Profile, including
Your Home Sauna
Your ideal sauna
The date of your first sauna or “Sauna Debut”
Self Introduction
While small, I feel like these help me feel like I belong on the site a little bit more, and it adds あpersonal touch to the experience.
Concluding Thoughts
I regularly use Sauna Ikitai to search for what sauna I am going to visit next. I wish more countries had somethign similar, and I have a lot of fun using Sauna Ikitai for my various Sauna needs. I hope that this guide is helpful in getting you started on your sauna hunting needs in Japan. Thank you for reading, and I hope you can find some totonou (sauna enlightenment) in your week!
Tatoos Okay? No Sauna? Yes Price? $$ Should I Bring Toiletries? No. Price is inclusive of amenities. Best For? Those looking to take a breather after sightseeing in East Tokyo (Asakusa, Akihabara, Ueno, etc.). Those looking for a high quality super-sento at a lower price point, or something off the beaten path that attracts fewer foreign tourists than other super sento complexes.
Nearest Station? Ryogoku Station (Oedo Line) (1 minute walk), Ryogoku Station (JR Line, 8-10minute walk
The venue Located in Tokyo’s Ryogoku neighborhood, famous for the Kokugikan Sumo stadium, which hosts Japan’s largest sumo tournaments. Edo-yu Ryogoku is an excellent, low-key super sento that provides a large scale Japanese bathing experience without relying on gimmicks that make it feel excessively “touristy”. Let’s take a look at what sets Edo-yu Ryogoku apart as a super sento!
What is a Super Sento?
While I have used the term sparingly in other articles, I would like to pause for a moment to explain what exactly a “super sento” is. In contrast with a regular sento, a super sento is not only larger in size, but is typically marketed as more of a luxury and cultural experience than as a utilitarian public bath. Super sento are often targeted at tourists (both domestic and international), and are more likely to include “spa services” (massage, body scrubs, etc.) and often are themed around aspects of traditional Japanese culture (yukata/traditional Japanese robes are often given out, for example).
To combat the closing of sento around Japan due to the installation of household baths in the 20th century, super sento were introduced as a way to revive sento culture, and became popular in the 1980-1990’s. This sparked what is now referred to as Japan’s second sauna boom (the first being after the 1964 Tokyo Olympics).
While there can be tension between neighborhood sento and super sento (see the description for this sento here), with the former pulling customers away from less flashy neighborhood sento, I find that they are often a blast to visit, and can offer a high quality bathing experience that can coexist with smaller neighborhood venues (see here).
Aesthetics
Edo-Yu Ryogoku has a consistent minimalist motif that is visible throughout the facility. Perhaps the most prominent example of this, nearly every floor has a major portion made of light wood, with white accents nearby. This can be seen from the get-go, with the facility’s entrance demonstrating the same color scheme that is constant throughout.
Minimal and eye-catching without being too distracting, the entrance immediately drew me in
The wood and white motif continues through each of the five floors of the facility, with the inside providing a few nice touches of distinctly Japanese additions. For instance, the primary bathing area’s wall mural appears to be of the famous ukiyo-e (Japanese woodblock carving) Great Wave off Kanagawa. While maintaining the motif presented outside and in the lobby, I found the subtle yet prominent addition of the distinctly Japanese style mural to be an excellent touch without feeling too gaudy, as some tourist attractions/super sento can feel.
“Great Wave off Kanagawa“. I’m sure you’ve seen it in a freshman college dorm somewhere…
Outside of the gender segregated bathing area, there are two primary areas; the relaxation area and the bedrock sauna (which I will cover in the facilities section of this review). The relaxation area maintains the consistent, wood and white motif found in the rest of the facility, while adding wooden windows in the style of a ryokan (Japanese style inn). With areas to nap, work, and read nearby, I found the simple, non-distracting aesthetics of the space to put me at ease while relaxing.
Not pictured: bookstands with Sauna Bros. Magazine (Japan exclusive) and Sado (famous Japanese Sauna manga, literally translating to “Way of the Sauna”). Great place to recharge!
Culture/Vibe
Unlike the previous facilities I have reviewed thus far, Edo-Yu Ryogoku isn’t aimed to serve as a community space, since it is a super sento. With that in mind, I would say that the culture here isn’t as relevant as much as the overall vibe is. In my visits to the venue, I noticed a distinct lack of foreign tourists compared to other super sento (Spa Laqua, Thermae-yu, etc.). I think a part of this was intentional, as it seems more catered to domestic visitors, and has less English/Chinese/Korean signage (but not completely absent) than other super sento in Tokyo. With that in mind, I do think that explains why Edo-yu Ryogoku has more design choices that feel targeted at a Japanese audience. For example, the rest areas felt notably quieter, and had more work spaces and less “spa services” than other super sento I have visited.
Working area found on the gendered floor of each area
I sincerely appreciate how the venue, despite being a large bathing complex, maintains a relaxed atmosphere, and allows me to avoid feeling like I need to get the absolute most out of my experience to get my money’s worth. The relatively low price point (especially if you visit on a weekday/non holiday) helps contribute to this as well.
Edo-yu Ryogoku also had saunners/sauna enthusiasts in mind with several design choices throughout. For instance, above the cold plunge pool, there is a guide with characters from the Sado manga about how to achieve totonou in six steps. While subtle, I found this was a great touch, and I have used the guide at other facilities as well (which itself is worthy of an article).
I unfortunately couldn’t find the guide on the Japanese side of the internet, so here is an image from the original Sado manga of a character achieving totonou (sauna enlightenment)
Another design choice for the sauners, the bathing area features a recommended order of how to use the baths and sauna for optimal effect. It is written in Japanese across one of the walls (not translated into English), and goes into the step-by-step on what is the best order to use the facilities in. I know of only a few venues in various countries that provide this kind of information, but I always appreciate when it is made available. I think it’s a fantastic idea, and I always try and implement it when I visit.
Facilities
The main gendered bathing area hosts five different baths. The indoor portion features a standard heated bath (jetted and non-jetted), a cold plunge pool, and a carbonated bath. The low rise, wide carbonated bath stood out as a highlight for me. Nestled under the Great Wave off Kanagawa mural, I found it to be a great place to warm up before starting any serious sauna endeavors.
There are two saunas adjacent to the bathing area: a Finnish style sauna and a lower temperature sauna (the women’s section swaps this with an aromatic steam room). The Finnish sauna had a nice medium heat, medium humidity maintained throughout my visits (thanks to the auto-loyly, which is the Finnish word water dispensing over the sauna rocks to increase/sustain the heat). It contrasted well with the nearby cold plunge and served its job well. The lower temperature sauna on the mens side was a nice option as well for those who want a less extreme experience, even if I didn’t use it much during my visits.
Edo-yu’s Finnish style sauna, or the “main” sauna
The remaining two baths are in a semi outdoor area (covered canopy, with an open face window toward the ceiling, tucked away in a corner). Closest to the door is the Chinese medicinal bath. Filled with various herbs, you come out of the bath with a distinct yet pleasant earthy smell after a few minutes. Across the room is the open air sleeping bath, filled with what Edo-yu’s website describes as air bubbles that remove dirt from the body. This bath has access to the open air atrium, which I found to be a great contrast on a cold day with the warm resting bath.
Herbal bath on the right, open-air/sleeping bath in the back
One last remaining area that I haven’t discussed is on an entirely separate floor: the bedrock sauna. Similar to a Korean style jjimjilbang (찜질방, for those who can read Korean), the room is referred to as the “Shirishibo”. On the facility’s website, it is described as:
“a room where each person can relax in their own bed space. The “Zakuro-guchi'” (small door) reminiscent of public baths from the Edo period maintains a constant humidity and temperature inside the room. The bedrock is Liaoning stone, which contains a lot of organic germanium.”
The room has a a sleek, black finish to it, and I found it to be a nice middle ground between the lounge area, and the more concentrated bathing and sauna area. I found I enjoyed it the most towards the end of my visits, serving as a nice way to work up a sweat if I didn’t have the stamina to do another extreme hot/cold cycle.
Limitations/shortcomings
Unfortunately for my inked readers, the venue does not allow entry for tattooed visitors. For whatever reason, I have found that super sento (at least in Tokyo) are consistently the most strict about the no tattoo policy (I find that lot of hip smaller sento allow tattoos to attract a younger, urban crowd). I imagine that this is due to more expensive venues wanting to cater to families and provide more of a a “luxury” experience. As such, they take extra precautions to keep Yakuza out. Regardless, if you have tattoos, I would suggest visiting of the numerous tattoo-friendly facilities that I have reviewed.
Additionally, since it is a bit more off the beaten path, I would come with at least a few Japanese phrases prepared, as the facility isn’t really set up with a lot of English infrastructure. That said, the staff is incredibly helpful. I don’t consider this a demerit by any means (this is in Japan after all), but just something to consider before you go if this is a dealbreaker, or you are planning on swapping this in place of a super sento that is more accessible for first time visitors.
Verdict:
Edo-yu Ryogoku has a cultivated minimalist vibe, while simultaneously providing the most out of its bathing, sauna, and lounge facilities. Giving a more concentrated experience, I would recomend Edo-yu Ryogoku for someone who enjoyed a first trip to a super sento, and is curious about making steps towards exploring more of Japan’s sauna culture outside of the general English speaking tourist circuit, but isn’t sure where to go next. Regardless of your reasons for visiting, you certainly won’t regret it.
Food Pairing:
Tonkatsu Hasegawa.
Located near JR Ryogoku Station (roughly a ten minute walk from the venue), this restaurant is on the Michelin Bib Gourmand list. The aforementioned list covers restaurants that the Michelin Guide recognizes as high quality, and more budget friendly than its Michelin Star counterparts (a general travel tip I would give for anyone visitng Tokyo as well).
I had to wait around 30 minutes to secure a table, but the food was absolutely worth the wait. With an extra crispy coating and a high quality, fatty cut of pork, my taste buds were happy with every second that I waited in line.
For 1800 yen (a little over $12.50 USD), I was able to get a full Tonkatsu set with a side salad, miso, tea, and two vegetable sides. In my view, very well worth it for a Michelin recognized meal.
Authors Note: Much like a wine pairing with a good meal, I find that finding the right bite to eat after a sento/sauna session to help make my totonou/sauna high that much more euphoric. As such, I am considering adding a food pairing suggestion as a staple of my reviews if this is received well, or something readers would be interested in.
Thank you all for reading, I wish you a Merry Christmas. Happy Holidays, and hope you can make the time to find a piece of “tototnou” in your week!
Tattoos okay? Yes Sauna? Yes Price? $ Should I Bring Toiletries? Yes. Shampoo and soap not on site, but are available for rent. Same with towels. Bring your sauna hat! Best for? Those looking for a refined venue with excellent facilities, while experiencing a slice of the more quiet side of Tokyo.
Nearest Station? Ikejiri-ohashi Station (Den-en-toshi Line)
Located in the posh residential Meguro Ward, Bunka Yokusen provides a classy experience, while cultivating a neighborhood feeling that prevents it from feeling too pretentious.
Aesthetics:
A work of the legendary sento architect Kentaro Imai, the aesthetics of Bunka Yokusen match the quality I have come to expect from his works. His signature spaciousness, meditation bath, and sleekness are all present here and do not disappoint.
A note on Imai’s architectural page for the venue that stood out discussed the artwork of the facility. While wall length paintings of Mount Fuji are a staple at sento throughout Tokyo, they are notably absent at Bunka Yokusen. Instead, the bath portion adorns two (one on the men’s side, one on the women’s side) circular, 1.8 meter long painted pictures of a mountain on each. While a small detail, the paintings are beautiful, and gives Bunka Yokusen a different flair that sets it apart from other sento.
Bunka Yokusen excels at striking the balance between comfortable and cool. A key example of this can be found in the venue’s relaxation room. Nestled in the corner next to the warm baths, often packed with chatty families and patrons, the relaxation room transports you into what seems like another world. Serene, simple, and sleek, the room allows bathers to enter a state of totonou/relaxation undistracted by what feels like a family living room right outside. With essential oils/lit incense in the back and the Monolith from “2001: A Space Odyssey” aesthetic (my personal favorite movie), I found the space to be one of the highlights of my several visits.
I’d be pressed to imagine a better space to zone out post-cold plunge…I can’t be the only one who sees the 2001 similarities…. (*cue Also sprach Zarathustra*)
A lot of the aesthetic portions of the venue overlap with the culture, so I will chose to write more about relevant aesthetic features in that section. As such, this section is a bit lighter than what I usually strive for.
Culture/vibe:
In Japanese, Bunka Yokusen literally translates to “Cultural Bath”. On Bunka Yokusen’s website, more information is provided on the venue’s mission statement that I found to help explain the naming choice:
“Since its founding in 1932, Bunka Yokusen has been supported by the patronage of everyone, and has reached its present state. In 2011, the bathhouse was completely renovated, and while retaining its old-fashioned public bath features, it was reborn as a modern public bath that pursues healing and comfort”
“The concept behind the renovation is “SLOW,” and we aim to “provide a space where our customers can stay for as long as possible.” As part of this, we play jazz background music not only in the lobby but also in the bathtubs, an initiative that is difficult to find at other public baths.”*
*translated from Japanese using Google
I found “slow” as the perfect word to hone in on how Bunka Yokusen felt so cool and cozy all at once. Classy without trying too hard, the renovation seems to have served the sento well, breathing new life into the facility.
Walking into the venue, you immediately notice the all-wood finish of lobby, adornished with minimal furniture, as well as a merchandise display with t-shirts and sauna hats donning Bunka Yokusen’s logo (also on the entrance flag at the door). The end result is something between your midwestern aunt’s house and a trendy coffee shop with wicker furniture (hard to pull off, but trust me, Bunka Yokusen pulls it off).
Imai’s architectural page, strangely enough, gives some insight into this:
“For budget considerations, this project was premised on existing parts being reused as much as possible. So, the main issue was coordination of existing parts and new parts, those were integrated in an interesting mismatch sense”.
Further expanding on this, Imai explains that:
“Of course, less waste is preferred from an ecological angle, and used materials have a nice charm from aging that new materials do not have”.
This consicely put into words what gives Bunka Yokusen an older feel, while simultaneously feeling modern and incredibly well refined.
Facilities:
Inside the bathing area, the retro charm slowly transitions into serene, masterfully crafted bath and sauna facilities.
The bathing area features two prominent warm baths, as well as a cold plunge pool. The larger bath is a relatively standard heated sento bath. Clean, well kept, and relaxing. The smaller bath adjacent to it requires a bit more explaining. The cloudier looking, lighter bath utilizes “nanobubles”. On the Bunka Yokusen website, they are explained as such:
“Our bubble bath contains many nano bubble particles. Nanobubble particles have been proven to have a variety of effects, including ultrasonic waves, weight loss, thermal effects, and even the possibility of inhibiting the formation of arteriosclerotic lesions..”*
*Translated from Japanese using Google and Deep L
While I don’t entirely understand all of the description and imagine some of the meaning is lost in translation (from what I could read in Japanese, it did talk about diet effects and I believe anti-aging), the bath felt fantastic on my skin, and certainly added to my experience.
The sauna, featuring an auto loyly* that lights up an otherwise dimly lit room, is top notch. Living up to its name (Bunka Yokusen meaning Cultural Sauna), the sauna has selected jazz music playing at an audible, but not distracting volume. In combination with the dim lighting and small window with a view of the baths, entering the sauna feels like stepping into another world; more relaxed and a bit cooler than the one before it.
*Loyly: water pouring on the sauna rocks to increase the heat and humidity of the room
Directly across the room from the sauna lies a cold plunge pool (not pictured) in the opposite corner. Jets move the cold water around to make for a chilly, moderately deep (probably around three to four feet) cold plunge experience. The temperature is cold, and contrasts well with the high heat suana temperature.
Limitations/shortcomings:
If you want to use the sauna, be prepared to wait! On my two weekend trips, I have had to wait around 45 minutes to use the sauna. Both waits were well worth it, but if you want to avoid the lines, I would recommend arriving right as they open, or visiting on a weekday.
While I wouldn’t consider this a shortcoming, the cold plunge pool felt like it may have used chlorine. While this is is standard in some countries, I haven’t been able to smell any noticable chlorine in any of the baths in Japan. May have been something else, but it did stand out on one of my visits (I may amend this after future visits if I feel this is unwarranted).
Verdict:
Hip, cozy, and amenities to match, Bunka Yokusen is a must visit in Tokyo. The venue’s melding of hip and comfortable gives Bunka Yokusen an unmatched vibe. If you’re looking for a sento experience that is cool, while also a relaxing change of pace that a standard trip to Tokyo may not include, give Bunka Yokusen a visit.
Authors note/bonus tip: I won’t factor this into the review, but if you visit Bunka Yokusen, I would highly recommend visiting the pizza restaurant next door, Parantesi. Just five steps away, you have access to Michelin Star Pizza for an incredibly reasonable price (for a full pizza, appetizer, and cappuccino, I paid 3800 yen, or about $25). For a Michelin Star meal, I would consider this a bargain! A little known fact about Japan, some of the best pizza in the world is in Tokyo. Several Michelin star pizza restaurants are located in Tokyo, and are a great way to enjoy high quality food on a budget.
Most people are familiar with Michelin Stars, the most sought after restaurant accolade in the world. You may not be familiar with, however, Saunachelin stars!
Taking full advantage of Japan’s sauna boom, Saunachelin has ranked the eleven most outstanding saunas across Japan every year since 2018! Let’s take a look at what it takes to earn a Saunachelin star.
Who is Behind Saunachelin?
When stumbling upon Saunechelin, I couldn’t help but think “who came up with such a brilliant idea?”.
The Japanese sauna organization TTNE are the minds behind Saunachelin. The organization’s name is an abbreviation for the Japanese word “totonou” (ととのう), which refers to the state of temporary enlightenment and peace achieved by several rounds of alternating between hot and cold.
In 2017, TTNE was founded Dai Matsuo (松尾 大) and Daisuke Akiyama (秋山 大輔). Founding TTNE as a brand specifically for sauna culture, Matsuo and Akiyama sought out to create a space for sauna enthusiasts (particularly in their 20-30’s) to embrace and spread sauna culture within Japan. Through their collaboration, the two bring their experiences from the corporate world to their endeavors in the sauna sphere. As a part of TTNE, the two have founded not only Saunachelin, but established “The Sauna Society of Japan”, “Sauna FES Japan”, launched a sauna-apparel line, and served as brand ambassadors for Finnish sauna brand “Harvia”. Taking a look at the various projects the two are involved in, their enthusiasm for sauna is palpable, and is clearly a major factor behind TTNE’s success. I found the following quote from the TTNE website to really sell the company’s passion and vision for sauna in Japan:
“Surfers have a brand of surfers, Skaters have a skater brand. Sauna brand for sauna …”
Today, TTNE has several offices (two in Tokyo, one in Sapporo), and has eighteen employees listed on their website. I have found that the majority of sauna related events around Tokyo are in some way affiliated with TTNE. If you are ever curious about what is happening in the Japanese sauna world, looking at any of TTNE’s projects will likely put you in the right direction.
Annual Rankings
Each year on November 11th, also known as “Totonou Day”, Saunechelin announces its 11 top saunas in Japan. To make the cut, a venue has to stand out among the 12,000 other sauna across Japan to be considered innovative or noteworthy in the world of sauna.
To see what I mean, let’s take a look at a few of this year’s winner’s for 2023:
“The largest sauna facility in Kanto [the greater Tokyo area], opened in Asakusa. [It has] five types of saunas and three temperatures of baths”
Many of these facilities, such as its steam room with a “cupboard bath” inside, take inspiration from traditional Japanese culture and the Edo period.
“The main sauna “Steam Dance’”, which automatically controls lighting, sound, and 6 special speakers and woofers and is compatible with the Aufguss [the process of diffusing essential oil throughout the sauna, often done in a flashy manner with a towel] show, is full of power. It’s amazing that it’s not just flashy, but also comfortable, with the introduction of a ‘CO2 concentration automatic detection ventilation system’ that automatically controls ventilation using AI.”
Frankly, I’m not entirely sure what all of the specific jargon refers to here, but I found it demonstrates the kind of specificity that Saunachelin venues have in their spaces.
Quoted portions are translated from Japanese using Google
“A sauna in the jungle, owner Tetsuji Sakamoto was moved by a garden spa that utilized an entire mountain that he came across in Thailand, and based on that experience, created Annetai Sauna. Enjoy an outdoor bath surrounded by subtropical nature.”
“We recreate the environment of Finland, the home of saunas, with a `Forest Sauna’ that resembles a sauna hut in the forest, and an `Ice Sauna’ where you can experience the cool outside air (minus 25 degrees Celsius) and a lake.”
Translated from Japanese using Google
As seen above, Saunachelin winners consistently outperform by both refining and innovating their sauna experience in ways that push the boundaries of Sauna culture in Japan.
Saunner Of the Year
In addition to ranking the top saunas, Saunachelin also celebrates outstanding contributors to Sauna culture in Japan, commonly referred to as “Saunners”.
Manga author and creator of “Sado” (literally translates to “Way of the Sauna) (サ道).
The series (which I am yet to read, unfortunately) follows the main character’s visits to a local gym sauna, where he discovers the joys of sauna and makes lasting friendships through the power of sauna (as you do). Sado is often attributed as one of the driving factors of the sauna boom in Japan (a topic for a later date).
Misato Shimizu
Japanese actress who is also a huge “saunner” herself. She has frequently worked with popular sauna website “Sauna Ikitai” (literally meaning “Let’s Go to the Sauna), and has been on several radio shows and interviews discussing sauna in Japan.
Jin’s Co LTD
An eyewear company with a line of glasses specifically designed for use in the sauna. Heat and fog resistant, this product line is a great example of the kinds of unique sauna merchandise that are coming out of Japan right now.
The list goes on, but essentially, candidates are not limited to those working in the sauna industry, and can be awarded to anyone who advances and contributes to sauna culture in Japan.
Closing Thoughts
While Saunachelin seems almost too good to be true, in Japan, it is a highly respected accolade that reflects the nation’s booming sauna culture. I regularly refer to Saunechelin not only find new venues to visit, but also to gain insights into contributors in the Japanese sauna world.
I hope you enjoyed this week’s dive into Japanese sauna culture. Have a great week, and I hope you can find some “totonou” in your week!
Tattoos okay? Yes Sauna? Yes Price? $ Should I Bring Toiletries? Optional. Shampoo and soap on site. Towels for rent. Bring your sauna hat! Best for? Those looking for a skillful blend of the old and the new, and an accessible look into Tokyo’s booming sento revival/sauna culture.
A success story tucked away between the Tokyo Skytree and Kinshicho Station, Kogane-yu manages to preserve the core of a 100+ year old sento, while adding a few special twists that give Kogane-yu a buzz that is making waves in the Tokyo sento scene
While it may be hard to believe looking at the two-hour long lines to get in, it was not long ago that Kogane-yu was a run-down, old-school bath house on its last legs. After a crowdfunding initiative and COVID-19 related delays, Kogane-yu received a major facelift in 2021. A true success story, Kogane-yu is now one of the trendiest sento in town, complete with a bar serving craft beer and an in-house DJ (no, that was not a typo).
Aesthetics: Kogane-yu’s design sandwiches the old and the new, with the front and back of the facility carrying the lion’s share of the modern upgrades, and the bathing portion/center part of the sento remaining mostly intact as a traditional sento, minus some refinished wall murals and general upkeep.
Approaching Kogane-yu, patrons are greeted with an open glass window and sliding door, with a view of the shoe lockers, front desk, and the facility’s standing bar/DJ booth. With a staff member manning the record selection and serving up Kogane-yu’s line of craft beer to customers, the venue’s sleek aesthetic is matched by the modern, hipster-esque offerings at the front.
The lobby ceilings extend fairly high as well, revealing some intentionally exposed pipes, giving a vibe reminiscent of a trendy business in modern Brooklyn. While the lobby packs a lot into a modest space, the open air design of the lobby kept the space focused and sleek.
The locker room matches the sleek, light wooden brown aesthetic that adorns the exterior of the facility. The bath/main sento portion of the facility does not break too far from the mold of a standard sento, minus the addition of a sleek, modern art mural by artist Yoriko Hoshi. The aforementioned mural features a brush stroke depiction of Mount Fuji and what appear to be Japanese villagers in the countryside, all plastered on a modern concrete finish on the far side wall. The modern take on a classic sento art trope (Mount Fuji) is a small, but much appreciated touch.
The back portion of Kogane-yu reveals, after journeying through a sleek concrete tunnel, a sauna deck with a lit blue cold plunge pool directly across, complete with a lit atrium lined with plants surrounding the nearby lounge chairs. Exiting the bathing area and entering the sauna portion of the facility feels like finding a hidden area in a Legend of Zelda game, or finding an unexpected $50 in the pair of pants you put on in the morning. Hidden away, elegant, and surprisingly spacious, Kogane-yu’s outdoor atrium gives the facility a sense of completeness that nicely ties the experience together.
Culture/vibe: Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Kogane-yu, is the sento’s ability to simultaneously stay trendy, while providing an inclusive experience for all prospective guests. Families with children, older residents of the neighborhood, and inked Japanese sento hipsters have all been present in my several trips to Kogane-yu. Striking the balance of trendsetting without forcibly shunning long-time patrons, Kogane-yu manages to create a unique space that (from what I could garner) keeps its community feeling intact.
At the heart of Kogane-yu’s ethos is a focus on the facility as a community space. Plastered throughout the space, guests can see numerous collaborations with local businesses on various posters. One featured near the entrance even showcased a Converse Japan x Koganeyu collaboration event!
The space’s community centric ethos is on prominent display throughout the facility, giving the space a certain warmth that (otherwise great) “super sento” complexes can lack, such as Spa Laqua, or Thermae-yu.
Flyers and a calendar for local meetups/events hosted at Kogane-yu are visible throughout the facility. While my limited Japanese admittedly inhibited how much I could garner from the flyers, what I could manage to read showed how much effort Kogane-yu puts into being a community space, rather than just a trendy sento that serves craft beer.
While the space maintains a communal feel, make no mistake; Kogane-yu is hip to its core. When finishing up at the sento, Kogane-yu is best enjoyed by ordering a drink at the bar (alchoholic or not) and soaking in the atmosphere. The bar serves an excellent sparkling Poccari Sweat mocktail that, paired with an always on-point vinyl selection curated by the DJ, allows visitors to end their visit on a high note.
Facilities:
Kogane-yu’s baths are simple, yet effective. True to a traditional sento, the facility features your standard row of sitting showers, two hot pools (one hot, one meant to scorch your skin), a heated lounging pool, and a cold plunge. Nothing too flashy, but everything executes its purpose well. The temperature ratio between the hot and the cold provides an effective contrast that left me satisfied.
The sauna portion in the back is where Kogane-yu’s bathing experience particularly stood out. The sauna itself is quite toasty, and well heated. This no-nonsense sauna is complemented by an outdoor cold plunge right across the walkway. The cold plunge is situated above the nearby lounge, giving the body length pool an almost regal feeling, standing above bathers taking a break in the lounge cove.
The lounge itself has a water fountain and beverage cooler, with five to six chairs for bathers to take a break from the grueling yet invigorating hot/cold cycle. The feeling of the fresh air on my skin combined with the post-sauna/cold plunge high felt nothing short of euphoric. Bringing a cold electrolyte drink (Pocari Sweat and Aquarius are favorites in Japan) adds to this experience even further!
The well laid out hot-cold combination, combined with the outdoor setting that the lounge and cold pool find themselves in sold me on the Kogane-yu hype. I understood the often several hour wait times to use the sauna portion of the facility.
Limitations/shortcomings: While a good problem to have as a business, Kogane-yu has clearly garnered fans. As a result, availability for the sauna is often several hours. Thankfully, there is an online portal that allows you to check the wait and reserve a spot ahead of time. That said, the long wait times do make me less inclined to pop in on a whim, and my visits tend to involve a bit more preemptive planning.
Additionally, for hosting an excellent lobby and bar, the seating itself is limited at two standing tables and a few stools. In my view, it seemed like a bit of a shame to have such great amenities with relatively little room to enjoy them to their full potential. Especially considering how long wait times can be, expanding the lobby could be a great opportunity to take full advantage of the excellent bar space
Authors Note: The outdoor portion of Kogane-yu is only offered to one gender at a time. Unfortunately for female guests, the outdoor sauna portion is generally only on the men’s side every day but Wednesday. There is an indoor sauna on the other side of the facility, but pales in size compared to its outdoor counterpart. If you are interested in the outdoor sauna area, I would suggest checking Kogane-yu’s website to make sure you are visiting on a day where you will have full access to the facilities.
Verdict:
Trendsetting without losing its footing, Kogane-yu manages to preserve a neighborhood bath house while creating a new vision for Japanese public bathing in the 21st century.
This trendy sento epitomizes Shibuya’s energy in bathhouse form. Kairyo-yu is an excellent example of how renovation can breathe new life into traditional spaces.
I have been following both the renowned sento architect Kentaro Imai and declining sento attendance trends amongst younger Japanese for quite some time. So when I heard that Kairyo-yu is both designed by Mr. Imai and drawing in primarily younger crowds, I headed toward Shibuya as soon as I could to see Kairyo-yu for myself. Located a 5-10 minute walk from Yoyogi station, I couldn’t resist the allure of a sento right in the heart of Tokyo’s “cool capital”.
Aesthetics: Kairyoyu is nothing short of breathtaking. While the traditional layout of a 100+ year old bath house remains intact (two to three baths on one side, a line of seated showers on the other side of the room, a wall mural with Mount Fuji, etc.), Kairyoyu radiates the vibrance of Shibya, and its time-tested status as a hub for youth culture.
Right from the get-go, Kairyo-yu stands out from its peers as a hip and modern space. Upon finding the building in an alleyway about half a mile from Ebisu station, you will find a whale mural that adorns an entire wall of the building.
This does not stop just at the building, as several works of modern art are on display throughout. On the architectural description of Kairyo-yu given on Imai’s website, he describes the motif for Kairyoyu as “cultural crossing and cultural exchange”. This is manifested throughout the space, with its’ signature modern flair featured in the lobby and the mural along the sento/bathing area adorning a futuristic, graffiti style Mount Fuji mural.
The sento itself has a cohesive black marble and tile motif, with some mild blue lighting throughout. Between the lighting and the nearly exclusively twenty-something crowd, this gives the bath house a feeling reminiscent of a classy nightclub. Thankfully, all nightlife shenanigans are left at the door.
Perhaps the example that best illustrates the vibe of Kairyo-yu is that whenever the sauna heats up via an automatic heat/humidity detector, a dim red light would slowly light up the furnace. I found that small details, like keeping a consistent dim-light motif throughout the sento, gave Kairyo-yu a cohesive vibe that significantly added to my bathing experience.
Culture/vibe: Twenty-something urbanites constitute most of Kairyo-yu’s clientele. While this is common in Shibuya, this is not standard for many sento. Throughout Japan, sento are dying (a nuanced topic which I plan to cover at a later date) due to their clientele being primarily elderly Japanese who grew up using sento regularly. I found the presence of a younger crowd to be refreshing.
Upon entry, patrons are greeted with a sign introducing the staff for the night. Using my (limited at best) Kanji knowledge and a translation app, I was able to decipher some of the signs at the front gate. From what I could gather, the staff were introduced as “tonight’s heat wave masters” and had the names of employees working that night. While only a minor detail, I found that touch went a long way for me in setting Kairyo-yu apart from a standard Tokyo sento. At the same time, I found it endearing and impressive that the bathhouse successfully cultivates a hip feel, while maintaining a small “up and coming” vibe absent from many super sento and luxury saunas in Tokyo.
On the standard ticket vending machine (seen at the entrance after placing your shoes in the nearby cubby), various stickers were placed all around the machine. It reminded me of the Shibuya depicted in the early 2000’s cult classic video game (a longshot here) Jet Set Radio. For those unfamiliar (pardon the obscure reference) Jet Set Radio is a videogame from the early 2000’s that depicted Shibuya’s youth culture through the eyes of twenty-something year old graffiti artists.
On my way out, I noticed several co-ed groups of bathers meeting up in the lobby, appearing to chitchat about plans for the night, and the sorts of exuberant conversations you get after a refreshing schvitz. The lobby itself, while small, carried a wholesome aura, akin to hanging out at a regular friend’s house or local hang out in high school. Adorned with cushiony chairs and a vending machine, patrons seemed comfortable to stay and chat after their time in the sento. The lobby also had a well outfitted store, featuring t-shirts, trendy sauna hats, and merchandise for various affiliated Shibuya based clothing companies.
Facilities: With its reputation as a trendy renovated sento in the heart of Shibya, I was curious (and perhaps skeptical) what the quality of the actual baths would be like. Thankfully, they did not disappoint, and are among the best I have experienced in Japan. The baths themselves are reminiscent of a traditional sento (one warm bath, and one hot bath). The temperatures are toned down a bit, which I frankly appreciated. Some of the old-school sento in Japan keep their hottest bath temperature close to skin melting, so toning down the dial just a hair was a nice touch.
The sauna (which cost a bit extra) kept the humidity somewhat higher than a Finnish sauna, but still at a level where the dry heat was tolerable. I found my time in the sauna to be the peak heat of the facility, which had me running to the cold plunge.
Conveniently, the cold plunge is directly next to the sauna, kept at a cool but not frigid temperature of around 15 degrees (Celsius) that perfectly contrasted with the sauna.
Directly between the sauna and cold plunge, Kairyo-yu features an outdoor atrium with roughly ten chairs to sit and lounge in between sauna sessions. With some dim outdoor lighting, the atrium kept me grounded and allowed me to catch a breather between rounds, without taking me too far out of the experience.
Limitations/shortcomings: Kairyoyu had few shortcomings. If anything, the music played in the bathing area was inconsistent, ranging from quiet to American Top 40 radio being played loud enough to hear it, but not quite loud enough to feel like more than an afterthought. That said, I don’t think that the inclusion of “Cake by the Ocean” and dated Drake tracks put a significant damper on my experience (plus seeing the mild head bobbing to the music while patrons were in line for the sauna was rather entertaining.
Verdict:
Modern, elegant, and refreshing, Kairyoyu is a must visit. A near perfect example of how to both conserve and honor origins, while still innovating and embracing change and progress.
Sauna Sensei 