Rooftop DJ in the Heart of Shibuya. Food from the menu of a Michelin Chef. German wellness rituals using high class essential oils. While this may sound like a page out of a Tokyo elite’s diary entry, this was my experience at Shibuya Saunas’ all-night event that I attended this month!
I went into the deep end of Tokyo’s sauna scene for an immersive, one-of-a-kind experience. Much like any trip to Shibuya Saunas, it did not disappoint. The following is my attempt to put such a profoundly unique, inexplicable experience into words, and convey the scene as best as I can.
11:45: Lining Up
Making sure to get there plenty early, I arrived 15 minutes prior to the start of the event. At this point, there were already 15+ people ahead of me in line. I could hear the DJ sound system warming up from outside the building. Just before midnight, the line wrapped around the block, with about 40-50 people snaking around the building in line.
I can feel the excitement building, and maybe even a bit of nerves for what this event could possibly be like.
12:00
Promptly at midnight, a staff member comes out and welcomes everyone to the event. He explains that two individuals will be called at a time, and to please wait patiently. The process feels like waiting to get into the new hottest nightclub in town, or a midnight movie release.
12:05: Entry Process
When it is finally my turn, I enter the building and am asked for my name. Once I am checked off the sheet, I am ushered to a desk, reminiscent of one you would see to check in at a conference, or workshop sort of event. Several wristbands with times on them are out on the table, indicating entry times for the various Aufguss sessions. I chose the 2:00 AM session in the Musta sauna, timing it for around an hour after my complimentary meal.
I am given complimentary loungewear for the evening, as well as a limited-edition paper file and sticker commemorating the event. After, I am given an instructional sheet, and explained the rules and events for the evening. Once I am briefed, I head to my assigned locker to start the event.
12:30: Gearing up to Sauna
I take a minute to view my surroundings. So many saunas to choose from… I decide to head upstairs, curious about the DJ for the event.
Entering the garden, I am instantly surrounded by 30+ men in sauna hats surrounding the DJ booth outside the Tuuli sauna on the far end of the roof. The DJ, adorning a sauna hat, a towel around his neck, and swim trunks, looks over as I enter. I later find out that he will be giving an Aufguss session at the event, with another DJ taking over for the remainder of the night. I can already tell this event will be anything but normal…
Once I adjust to the DJ in the middle of the sauna complex, I head to the warm, cabin-like Teeta sauna. Packed to the brim, I suddenly remember that it’s well past midnight. Yet I’m in a sauna in the heart of Shibuya! After a few minutes and a nice loyly, I head for my first cold plunge of the night. Refreshing as always, I sit down and soak in the ethereal DJ mixes playing around me (many coming from DJ Chee Shimizu).
As I meander, I notice that the doorway is open to the other side of the facility, which is normally separated and assigned to men and women separately. Since this is a men’s only event, attendees had access to all nine (!) sauna’s the facility has to offer. I walk back and forth a few times to relish in the novelty. After some sauna sessions downstairs, I start to get a little hungry…
1:00: Complimentary Meal
Looking at the time card for my meal voucher, I decide to head downstairs. Enough food to tide me over, but I leave enough space that I won’t feel to heavy during the Aufguss session in an hour. The complimentary meal includes a cold noodle dish with a fruit mix on top. Nice, light, and tasty, it serves as an excellent mid sauna meal. Rejuvinated, I head back up to make it in time for one quick sauna cycle before Aufguss.
Author’s Note: Because I misread my time card, I unfortunately missed the “Intro to Whisking” (see here) event. This event looked fantastic, and I hope to attend next year to report on it!
2:00: Aufguss
As I head from the Vihta sauna to head to Aufguss (hoping to get one last dip in the cold plunge), I am ushered to the Musta sauna (I did not end up cold plunging in between…). Along with five to seven others, we are greeted by the Aufgussmeister (practitioner of Aufguss). Applying the first scented loyly to the water, the practitioner gives each of us essential oils into our cupped hands, explaining to apply it to our chest and neck.
From the opposite side of the sauna, the practitioner pulls out a towel suspended by two poles, much like a banner. Waving it around the room, the fragrance immediately makes itself known, and the heat intensifies. Just when it causes me to break a sweat, two metallic funnels appear with a handheld switch mechanism. The Aufgussmeister loads them up with water, and asks me to lean forward. Cool, refreshing water is poured across my feet, head, and back. I feel rejuvenated, ready for more.
A second loyly ensues, along with more towel waving. Another use of the funnels, but this time, it is with lukewarm, essential oil infused water. More essential oils for our chest and neck are passed out. Afterwards, we are given an ice cube, and instructed to place it in our mouth. After a few moments, I taste a bit of a surprise- it’s infused with mint! Between the heat, essential oils, and cooling mint taste, my senses are fully occupied.
After one last towel wave, we applaud and head for the cold plunge. It feels like pure relief, as I stay in for what feels like several minutes.
3:00: Totonou
I emerge from the cold plunge and sit down. I close my eyes. I feel an overwhelming sense of euphoria. This goes possibly beyond totonou （ととのう） and transcends into what might have been considered an out of body experience. My whole body feels like it’s smiling. I am fully present in the moment, not wanting to be anywhere else but here. I sit in presence for what felt like around ten minutes.
I opened my eyes and felt jolted back to reality. The people surrounding me have changed, I suddenly notice. I felt almost as if I was waking up, despite having lots of energy after my experience. I slowly enjoy another sauna session or two, taking it easy after such an intense Aufguss session.
3:30: More Food
After such an intense sauna high, I suddenly notice that I’m hungry. I change and head downstairs. After some contemplation, I settle on some Oropo (Pocari Sweat and Oramin C beverage) (オロぽ) and vegetable curry.
The man next to me is editing some sauna photos on his computer. Some patrons at the table across from me are enjoying a beer, chatting with one another.
Before I head back up, I go to the front desk to buy a shirt. I wanted something to commemorate the experience, so it felt appropriate. After asking his recommendations, I purchase the shirt and bring it up to my locker.
4:00: A Second Wind, and the gift of Midnight Loyly
After four hours of on-and-off sauna , I thought I would be done for the night. Oh how wrong I was. More energized than when I started, I head back upstairs for a final stretch of sauna glory. I start just wandering around a bit. As I bask in the growing morning sunlight on the rooftop deck, I meander over towards the Kelo sauna. Joined by one other patron, one of the Aufguss practitioners (also the first DJ of the night) asks us if we would to use the remainder of the scented water for the loyly?
We make eye contact and both nod in agreement. The practitioner comments how hot it is in the sauna, and teases us for accepting the loyly in the heat (just under 100 degrees, 212 in Farenheit).
The loyly is a mix of oak and flower, お花. He claims that the floral notes make it optimal for use right before bed, for the last aufguss of the night. The elusive ミドナイトロウリュ, midnight loyly. He isn’t mistaken. The scent is heavenly, and I savor every minute of it before going in for one last cold plunge round.
At this point, I feel invincible, enlightened, and emboldened. The sauna euphoria and the all-nighter second wind leave me feeling unstoppable. I lie down on the nearby bench and just smile and look at the now bright sky. Five minutes pass by. Then another five. As the time rolls by, I head downatairs to sneak in one last sauna round for the night.
5:00: Wrapping it up
Lying in the bed sauna for a last round for a few minutes, the staff goes to each sauna and informs us it is time to start exiting the sauna. I promptly head to the showers, tidy up, and change.
As I am heading downstairs, patrons are engaging with the staff, snapping a few photos, and a few even seem to have made new friends. That’s the power of sauna. I proceed to check out and thank the staff for hosting such a wonderful event. On the way out, we are each handed a complimentary non-alcoholic beer (Asahi) for the road. I save it for when I get home and head towards the dawn-lit Shibuya station. Nearly empty (a rarity for the world’s second busiest subway station), I grab a quick snack and head home (trying desperately not to fall asleep on the train.
Final Thoughts
Overall, the event was fantastic! Shibuya Saunas did an excellent job of hosting, and I hope similar events catch on at other sauna’s around Japan (and hopefully worldwide!). I wasn’t sure how a DJ, all-nighter, and sauna were going to mix, but it all blended seamlessly.
Thank you for reading! I hope you enjoyed reading about something a bit different than my usual reviews and informative pieces. More articles are in the works for the coming weeks, so stay tuned…
Sauna Sensei 