Sento Sensei Uncategorized

TOTOPA

Sleek, creative, experimental.

This one has been in my queue to write about for quite some time now. Since this is a recent TTNE opening with a lot of hype surrounding its launch, I went within the first week or so of opening. After ranking Number 1 (!) in 2024’s Saunachelin, now felt like a good time to give it a review!

Tattoos Okay? Yes.
Price? $$$
Best for? Those looking for an aesthetic sauna experience. Those looking for sauna focused Japanese experience close to Shinjuku. Those looking for a facility to refine their sauna and totonou tactics.

Nearest Station: Sendagaya Station (JR Line) 14-minute walk

Background:

At Totopa, the focus is on exploration.. Created by TTNE, the brilliant sauna team behind other projects around Japan, including “Hottayu”, “Spa Metsa Otaka”, and “Sana Mane Sazae”. Likely inspired by recent success, they took this on as one of their more ambitious projects. Located in Shinjuku’s Meiji Park, this sleek new sauna pairs well with the surrounding new mixed use urban development, located underneath the (relatively) new Olympic Stadium nearby.

Concept: Exploration.

“3 x 3 x 2. 3 saunas. 2 cold plunges. 3 totonou areas. 18 experiences.”

The name “Totopa” is play on words that might not be obvious at first glance. ‘Totonou’, a Japanese word for sauna high, and ‘utopia’, the English word, merge well here to give Totopa an image as a “sauna paradise” of sorts. The name fits Totopa’s theme of exploration well- a utopia for saunners of sorts, with endless options for totonou.

There are several paths for exploration at Totopa. On its own, this isn’t extraordinary, but Totopa’s commitment to offering drastically different experiences put Totopa in a class beyond its competitors. 

On the men’s side, there are three saunas. The aptly named “left and right saunas” (located on these sides of the facility respectively) aim to stimulate “the left brain”, associated with analytical thought, and “the right brain”, associated with creative and emotional thinking respectively.

In the center is a relatively mellow sauna, focused on relaxing, and permits conversation (a rarity in the Japanese sauna world). There are even tables for you to brink drinks in from the refreshment bar and chat with others!

Functional differences aside, the commitment to three separate aesthetic experiences invite guests to mix and match the saunas to their liking. This is done so subtly; you likely won’t even notice that you’re doing it until your second or third visit. This intersection between architecture and experience is a great example of Totopa’s commitment to exploration in action.

Each of these saunas are not only visually distinct, but offer different levels of heat and humidity, providing three entirely different styles of sauna to choose from. Combined with the two cold plunge options: including a deep cold plunge set at a bone chilling temperature of around 10 degrees (just under 50 Fahrenheit) and a more mellow, sitting bath set at a more relaxed cool down temperature of around 18 degrees (around 64 Fahrenheit), the two cold plunge pools offer two alternate paths to cooling off, both with distinctively separate results after each sauna.

Combined with the 3 resting areas (outdoor, indoor, and the lounge), you can walk out of Totopa with 18 distinct experiences. This number (the one listed on the official website) doesn’t account for the warm baths, which I would argue can completely alter the experience, which add a dizzying total of 36 different experiences!

In this utopia (Totopa), the choice is yours. What kind of experience you want to forge is entirely up to you, just as the folks at TTNE intended.

Facilities and Aesthetics:

Left Brain Sauna

“Tron Sauna”

The moment you enter the door, you’re transported to a different world.

The striking yet mellow blue grid lighting contrasts with the high temperatures of the left-brain sauna. While the aesthetics help you settle into the high heat, it doesn’t take long for you to envelop in an intense wall of sweat. With frequent auto-loyly from the sauna centerpiece, this sauna is no joke.

With aesthetics right out of the classic cyberpunk film “Tron” (or Tron: Legacy, if you prefer), I refer to this as the “Tron Sauna”. Unfortunately, no light cycles included….

Not included at Totopa…

According to Totopa’s official website,  “geometric lines and cool blue tones stimulate the left brain in this sauna” The left brain is generally associated with analytical, logical thought. The sharp, ordered blue lines paired with the always-timely auto-loyly embody this type of thinking well and make for a seamless, left-brain inspired sauna experience.

I found it pairs well with the deep cold plunge. The high temperatures are well complemented by the low temperature (11 degrees) and awe-inspiring depth (165 cm I think). If you’re up for it.*

*Note: there is absolutely no shame if this is too intense. Do what works for you and start slow.

Right Brain Sauna

“Dune Sauna”

In contrast with the left-brain sauna, the right Brain Sauna is simultaneously energizing and more relaxed. The warm orange, red and brown color palate suit the lower temperatures of the sauna, providing a nice, slow release of sweat throughout your session in a relaxed yet striking environment.

In concurrence with the movie derived sauna nicknames, I refer to this as the “Dune Sauna” for its striking resemblance to the landscape of the recent Dune films. Fortunately, no sandworms are present at Totopa…

Much like the storms of the dry desert landscape of Arrakis, there is no escaping the auto-loyly of the right brain/Dune sauna. In between loyly, the cozy seating areas and warm colors invite you to unwind into this aesthetically soothing room with a relaxed, yet intentional vibe.

As described on Totopa’s website, the right sauna features “soft curves, warm colors, and individual seating which is sure to activate your right brain”. Whether it’s the rounded wooden seating pads or the color-changing, sphere-shaped enclave cut into the wall, I can see why this sauna is designed around the creative, emotional, and intuitive thought patterns associated with the right brain.

I found this sauna pairs well with the shallow cold plunge. The lower temperatures of the sauna make for a long and slow release in the comparatively warmer, bathtub shaped cold plunge.

Relaxed Sauna

Social sauna.

Several features of this centrally located sauna differentiate it from its two neighbors. Perhaps the most distinct is that it encourages socializing in the sauna. They even have small tables for you to relax and put drinks on!  I had no idea that’s what they were for until I researched for the review… In addition, the relaxed sauna allows for self-loyly, in contrast with the auto-loyly in the other saunas, giving it more of a communal feel than its counterparts.

To contribute to the social vibe, this sauna also plays music! The songs range from Japanese city pop (Masayoshi Tanaka’s “Seven Rainbow Goblins” made an appearance on my first visit) to American pop music.

In my experience, this was a fun relaxed sauna, but didn’t quite deliver as intended. The other guests seemed confused about the presence of the tables (myself included), and exactly “how” social the sauna is supposed to be. On the latter point, I think there are two factors at play here:

  1. Japan doesn’t in general* have a social sauna/bathing culture. Preexisting norms are more likely to take precedent over the social intent of this particular sauna.
  2. Combined Japan’s strong collective culture and emphasis on “reading the air”, this makes creating a social sauna practically difficult, as guests are more likely to be concerned about disturbing others when talking amongst themselves, and especially to strangers (from what I understand Finnish sauna culture is like this too). Contrast this with visiting a sauna in the United States and the entire room will be in a group conversation and know each other’s birthdays within five minutes.**

*Generally, the women’s side of sento are more social than the male side. Additionally, men over 60 seemingly flip a switch and suddenly use sento hour as social hour (which I always really enjoy)!

**While I have come to appreciate the silence of a Japanese style sauna, I do really enjoy this aspect of more talkative sauna cultures, and have made several friendships from “sauna talk”.

Social aspect aside, I found this is a great sauna to “reset” in a relatively standard but well-built sauna. I personally enjoyed both cold plunges after the social sauna, and entering one of the warm baths directly afterward plunging. I think the relatively plain sauna makes it feel “safer” to pair with a warm bath option afterwards, not requiring a full “totonou” cycle to reset.

Cold plunges.

Deep Cold Plunge:

This one is intense! It’s quite deep (165 centimeters to be exact). This one is particularly handy after the Tron sauna’s intense temperature and frequent rounds of auto loyly. In particular, I enjoyed the gradual staircase descent into the cold plunge, allowing for an adjustable experience with various options for depth. It also has a pleasant cutaway with a view of the rest of the facility from above- a nice touch!

Shallow Cold Plunge:

A more relaxed option. I like this one best for long, slow releases. Bonus tip, going directly from this pool to the neighboring warm bath is a great option to explore. This sequence was suggested to me during the Baum Event (scroll below for more info) and I’ve adopted it in my subsequent trips to Totopa. While not as immediately intense as its deeper counterpart, don’t dismiss this option as inferior just because it’s smaller!  When combined with the lower temperature sauna/baths in particular, this can be a preferred option for optimal totonou!

Warm Baths:

While not as much to report, the two warm baths are great additions to the facility. Pairing particularly well after cold plunge trips and for one last activity before heading out, they add yet another aspect of experimentation into the Totopa experience.

Other Amenities

There are two (and a half) primary rest/totonou areas to reset in between rounds. My personal favorite is the open-air lounge. Portioned off by a glass screen, this lounge has windows ever so slightly tilted open to give a refreshing breeze that grounds you back to reality. Combined the light breeze of surrounding ceiling fans, this option is paradesical, simply put.

The other primary option is the “refresh lounge”, as it is characterized on the Totopa website. I hesitate to call this a lounge, as it is mostly just chairs scattered around the bathing space. This isn’t inherently a bad thing (it’s quite convenient, actually), I just wouldn’t consider it a lounge. Anyways, I’m nitpicking here. The refresh lounge is categorized as one area, but I would argue its two.  

On the right-hand side of the bathing area are about fifteen to twenty chairs. Conveniently located close to the pools, this is a no-frills place to rest between rounds. While not as immersive as the open-air lounge, I appreciated having an option so close, especially if I’m trying to experiment and get a lot of rounds in (particularly on a weekend when I have nothing else going that day).

Located in the left corner next to the right-brain/Dune sauna are a few reclining lawn chairs. Across from the bathing area, this section is a nice in-between the refresh lounge and the open-air lounge, with just enough seclusion to relax, but with the controlled temperature of the refresh lounge. It’s only a few chairs, so I can understand why it wasn’t incorporated as an officially designated third totonou area, but I felt it was distinct enough to note here.

Between the locker room and the bathing area is a cozy refreshment area reminiscent of something in between a nice hotel lobby and a premium gym chain (think a nicer Gold’s Gym or an Athletic Club). With generous drink options (including non-alcoholic beer!), it’s convenient location between the locker room and the bathing area makes it easy to pop in and out to take full advantage.

You will likely notice one contraption that stands out among the rest: the Peloton bike. Standing in the corner next to a (fortunately) frosted-over glass window, I appreciate the thought but… just can’t see myself using it.

I mean, to each their own, but I just don’t think I want to pump out 20 minutes on the Peloton in my birthday suit.  Not to mention the chafing…

Peloton aside, this is a nice little area that’s worth a stop during your time at Totopa.

Authors Note: The women’s facilities appear to be completely different form the men’s side! Thankfully, they appear to be of an equal caliber to the men’s albeit with a different focus. At the present moment, I can’t speak for the facilities for the women’s side. In the future, I hope to bring on a guest to be able to report back on these!

Women’s only: “Breathing Area”

Limitations/shortcomings:

The bathing area/lobby looks a bit bland. For how incredible the saunas are aesthetically, I was disappointed with the center area being a relatively dull grey. The facilities are top notch, but the color scheme combined with the amount of space make things feel a tad sterile. Changing this would bring Totopa up to another level. It gives the venue a bit of a “house that’s too nice to actually use” sort of a vibe.

Additionally, while the facilities and experience are top notch, I found the price to be quite high. This is currently the most expensive non-private sauna I have been to in Tokyo. Totopa charges by the hour and the rate for 3 hours is nearly 5000 yen (!). While I am happy to pay this on occasion, this keeps it out of the absolute top tier for me, as there are a few venues that offer more for around 2000 yen cheaper.

Also, while I love the emphasis on experimentation. I would love to see this stated a bit more overtly. I didn’t think to mention this until my second trip, where a card was handed out with recommended routes to use the facilities for a special event.

When I previously worked at a sauna, I would often give my recommended order, as well as another popular sequence if people were curious. As many places have these on their wall, I think having a guide available on how to experiment would greatly enhance the experience. Personally, once I started to view “Totopa” as a lab to workshop my totonou experience rather than a typical sauna space, I grew a fonder appreciation for it.

Also, using the facilities requires registration via LINE. This is mostly a personal gripe, as I appreciate the convenience of being able to walk in with no frills or technology, especially in a cash-based society like Japan. Thankfully, the staff has been incredibly helpful with any issues with Line that I have had. I haven’t been with any non-residents of Japan who don’t have a Line account, but I can imagine this would be a barrier to entry if you’re visiting temporarily. 

I normally don’t comment on the English interface because I don’t find it appropriate (this is Japan, after all). That said, I know TTNE in particular does a lot of great work to make English/international accessibility a priority, as the company wants to reach an international audience. I think adding either cash-based options or other non-LINE alternatives would be a great way to bridge the international gap.

Speaking of this, Totopa is card only, so be prepared to have a working debit/credit card on you.  

While the criticism is a bit long here, I put these because they are actionable and that can be implemented! I love Totopa, and feel strongly that it has the potential to go from great to legendary. TTNE puts so much love and care into all of their facilities, these notes are all relatively minor things that don’t really put a significant damper on the experience.

Best Moment:

Finding the sauna/cold plunge/rest and bathing combination that hits the spot just right.For me, that was “Dune Sauna, shallow cold plunge, and shallow warm bath, followed by outdoor totonou area.

Also, the Dune sauna is one of the most visually striking saunas I have ever been in.

Unbelievably cool…

A note on the Baum Special Event

Back in September, I visited Totopa for a collaboration event with Skincare brand “BAUM”, featuring samples of their products to be used in conjunction with Totopa’s facilities.

Two aspects of the event stood out to me in particular.

  1. Totonou guide
  2. Plants.

These were two changes made for the event that I would love to see as permanent additions to Totopa!

Upon entry, you were given a guide on what order to use the facilities in, designed with the BAUM skincare samples in mind. The totonou guide was brilliant, and provided an excellent framework to start taking full advantage of Totopa’s facilities. I would love to see this guide (or similar ones) made available.

To match with the theme and aesthetic of BAUM, plants were brought in to decorate the facility. It brought Totopa, particularly the central bathing area to life. In what otherwise feels a bit empty and sparse, the greenery brought a sense of balance to everything. I was disappointed to see that these didn’t stick around after the event. It tied the facility together in a way I would love to see brought back.

Verdict:

Totopa’s unique sauna concepts combined with its emphasis on experimentation make Totopa another excellent work from TTNE. In my personal opinion, Totopa has incredible potential. As it stands, it is an excellent sauna facility. With a few changes, it could easily rise to one of the greats and even among the best in Japan.

If you’re okay with a heftier price tag and want an immersive sauna experience with a focus on experimentation tailored towards tinkering with your sauna routine, I’d highly recommend Totopa.

Food pairing: Meiji Park

Frankly speaking, Sendagaya is not a major dining destination. Dwarfed by nearby Shinjuku and Omotesando, the area’s dining options are scarce compared to its neighbors (I’m sure the several stadiums nearby contribute to this as well).

However, the newly built nearby “Meiji Park” has an aesthetically pleasing market area with several dining options. For immediate convenience, this is likely your best bet! If you want a more involved meal, you have easy train access to Shinjuku and Shibuya (which is what I have done on all of my trips).

Thanks for reading! I hope you find totonou in you future….  

Sento Sensei Uncategorized

Design Spotlight: Yukitaka Yoneda: “The Sauna Godfather” 米田行孝

After watching Sado (see my last article) for the first time, I enjoyed nearly every episode. However, one stood out among the rest: “With the Sauna Godfather” (ゴッドファーザーと共にととのう). References to the 1972 film aside, I was drawn in by Yukitaka Yoneda, the larger-than-life character who popularized Finnish style sauna in Japan.

BACKGROUND:

Yukitaka Yoneda (米田行孝) was born in Nagoya to a sauna family- with his father and grandfather operating saunas across the Kansai region of Western Japan.

His grandfather  opened Kobe Sauna and Spa just after World War II- when sauna was far from popular, or even known by the public. What was he thinking?  He anticipated that as post-war reconstruction progressed, more Japanese people would seek out leisure activities. His prediction was correct, and led to Kobe Sauna’s success (which endures today).

A man surrounded in lore and legend, he reportedly kept a baby elephant in his garden, and potentially lions and tigers (!).

Fast forward to today, Kobe Sauna and Spa is still operating, with Yoneda’s cousin Atushi Yoneda serving as President-talk about a sauna family!  

While Yukitaka Yoneda’s passion for saunas is now known across Japan, this wasn’t always the case. While his family ran saunas, they were at that time, as he describes it, rooted in the male-dominated ethos of the Showa era*. This image endured in Japanese sauna culture until very recently.

*Note: Showa refers to the Imperial Era between 1945 and 1989, when Emperor Showa ruled, particularly referring to his rule after World War II. He is often referred to as “Emperor Hirohito” in English. This is due to Japanese emperors receiving new names when they die. In this case, “Hirohito” was his name while he was alive, and his posthumous name is “Showa”. Since we don’t have this concept anywhere in the English-speaking world, “Hirohito” is still used in English Contrastingly, in Japan, “showa” is used to refer to both the emperor and the era in which he ruled. It is often shorthand for “retro” in a positive sense and “outdated” in a negative one.

The style of sauna of that time didn’t resonate with Yoneda. With the culture revolving around old salarymen saying “Let’s do our best tomorrow!” (明日もがんばるぞ) and watching TV in an itchy, dry, electric sauna wasn’t for him (who could blame him?). His future sauna ambitions were to remain dormant for now.

As Yoneda himself put it:

“I was a carefree rich kid. I had no interest in the family business, let alone saunas. Even when I was about to graduate from university, I didn’t feel any sense of crisis about my future. In fact, I didn’t even bother to look for a job.”

A few years after graduating university in 1993, he gained experience sauna consulting in China.  At the request of his father, partially concerned about Yoneda’s lack of ambition, had him work in his sauna business in Nagoya, and eventually help a business acquaintance’s first Japanese-style urban sauna in China get off the ground.

During his time in China, his father passed away, leaving his sauna business in Japan (and its debts) with him. Straddled with debt and overwhelmed by the death of his father, Yoneda’s inner world became quite somber.  At the height of personal anguish, Yoneda embarked on a trip to Finland. Feeling pushed to the limit by the trials of life, one smoke sauna session in the woods on a spur-of-the-moment trip Finland changed everything.

“That’s when I suddenly realized: ‘I should really think [more] about  saunas.’ For the next 10 years, my goal wasn’t to pay off my debts, but to think about what I could do for the world with saunas”

After the experience, Yoneda wanted to not only spread Finnish style sauna to Japan, but also explore what Finnish sauna could look like in a Japanese context.

Doubling down on his efforts, Wellbe and eventually, Sauna Lab, became legendary in the Japanese sauna world.

Later on, he cited Katsuki Tanaka’s groundbreaking “Sado” (サ道)as a contributor to his clarity on the role of Saunas in Japan.

‘It was only after I discovered Sado that I was able to clearly articulate that saunas are truly necessary in today’s society. From then on, I focused on ‘how to increase the number of people who enjoy saunas, rather than just doing it for the money,’ and as a result, the business of my company started to run smoothly.”

Today, his sauna facilities rank as some of the top throughout Japan, and with his passion for saunas, it’s not difficult to see why.

WORKS:

Wellbe:

Wellbe is Yoneda’s original storefront that he inherited from his father. Since he took over, it has transformed into a pioneer of the contemporary Japanese sauna boom.

Located in Nagoya, this Saunachelin  Hall of Famer is famous for being one of the first authentic Finnish style saunas in Japan. Established well before the start of the sauna boom, Wellbe managed to attract regular customers, despite it being a niche hobby at time. This is especially impressive being in Nagoya, since Tokyo and Osaka are the go-to destinations for anything international and experimental in Japan.

Wellbe is known for its authentic Finnish style saunas, top quality aufguss, and its cold “Lapland” room, meant to emulate the cold winters of Northern Finland while providing a place to cool down.

Today, Wellbe (men’s only) has a women’s only section (Forest House) and a Fukuoka location.

Sauna Lab:

Designed as an oasis in the city to help urbanites find peace and clarity in the midst of their busy lives, Sauna Lab uses Finnish design principles with Japanese influences to create an unparalleled experience.

Inspired by an increased interest in Sauna from women who were unable to visit the (then) men-only Wellbe Sauna, Sauna Lab was born. Inspired by his holistic view of sauna as a path to alleviating human suffering, SaunaLab broadened access to sauna beyond his work at Wellbe, focusing more on the communal aspects of sauna.

Today are Sauna Lab locations in Nagoya, Tokyo (near Kanda Station), and Fukuoka.

Yoneda’s vision for sauna lab.  

PHILOSOPHY:

Reduce suffering through sauna

After his own transformative experience in Finland, Yoneda recognized sauna’s potential to alter human behavior and enhance the wellbeing of mankind. While this might sound a bit dramatic, Yoneda articulates his vision well, both implicitly through his saunas and explicitly in numerous interviews.

On nature making the urban experience more manageable.Yoneda says

“Living in a city, there is an invisible barrier that says. ” This is the human zone.” But I sometimes wonder if a smooth, polished world is really comfortable for people.

I don’t have the answer, but if we could find a compromise between the natural and the artificial, we might be able to feel a little more comfortable. That’s what we want to explore at Sauna Lab.”

Upon my own visit to Sauna Lab, the amount of greenery, herbs, and wood throughout the building stood out as one of Sauna Lab’s most striking components.  Despite the Kanda location being a short walk from Akihabara, a poster child for a technology dominated “human zone”, Sauna Lab manages to take you away from it all and feel a bit of fresh air and the Finnish woods in the center of Tokyo.

Expanding on this, Yoneda credits our separation from nature to the hubris of the modern man: 

“I think the idea that humans are above nature is arrogant. The idea that humans are stronger than nature, that nature can be controlled, that kind of idea can be easily overturned. We have a lot of experiences like that, don’t we?”

“As I said before, it’s not about giving up urban life and
going back to nature. I think life would be easier if we got closer to nature and had a more humble attitude.”

Buddhist influence in sauna…?

If any of this sounds familiar, Yoneda’s philosophy has a lot overlap with Buddhism, as some have pointed out. On an archived version of the Sauna Lab website, you can find a distilled example of this

“The world in which nature is being lost and digitization is becoming more and more convenient is a wonderful place, but it is also bringing with it an increasing number of unique hardships. It is precisely because of these times that we created SaunaLab using natural wood in a building, as if we were planting trees in the city.”

He adds that

“I’m constantly asking myself what is needed to alleviate the suffering in the world right now, and that’s what I’m building these saunas with [in mind]”

The integration of nature (in particular, acknowledging that separateness between man and nature is artificial and that we are all part of one great existence) is as much a component in Yoneda’s work as the core acknowledgement of suffering, the latter which is found at the core of Buddhist theology.

Anyone who has experience ととのう (sauna enlightenment) can attest to the feeling of oneness and presence found in sauna. The importance of aesthetic spaces, such as Yoneda’s, in aiding the process are crucial to this feeling of oneness and presence found in both in Buddhist thought and the sauna experience.

Self-discovery through sauna

Cell phones have increasingly disconnected us from ourselves. The sauna survives as one of the last bastions to not only unplug, but reestablish self-reflection. As Yoneda puts it:

“I feel like there is a slight connection between
when saunas started to become popular and when smartphones started to become widespread. I think the reason saunas are becoming so popular worldwide is that people want to reset themselves from all that brain-intensive activity by going to the sauna.

In other words, the sauna gives your brain a rest.”

Yoneda emphasizes sauna as a remedy against the hyperconnected lifestyle of the modern age, suggesting that:


“If you spend all day on your computer or smartphone, I’d like you to try resetting yourself in a sauna, even if it’s just once a week. Sometimes, when you’re alone and you find yourself thinking endlessly, going into a sauna can actually help ease your mind.”

The combination of being without your phone and forced to focus on the body does wonders for one’s mental health. In the modern world where nearly everywhere is invaded by phones, saunas have held out when even strongholds like airplanes and schools have succumbed.

Throughout history, creatives, spiritual leaders, and innovators have relied on silence and stillness to prompt insights and “a-ha “moments. In a world of constant distractions, we have sanitized and scrubbed out nearly all opportunities for these sorts of insights.

In his own words:

“If the people of Tokyo could come to this sauna, reflect on themselves, rediscover themselves, and unleash their true potential, I believe Japan would become a better country. No, it’s not that saunas themselves will change the world. But if we can make the people in the town more and more energetic by creating saunas like this, then maybe we can indirectly change the world. I really believe that. ”

More than anything, this is why this blog exists. Frankly, I’ve wrestled back and forth if it’s appropriate to draw attention to a country facing massive overtourism issues and a low amount of English infrastructure to support it.

What unceasingly compels me to keep writing is the kindness shown Japanese sauna community, and how sauna continues to show up in my own life and the lives of others as a force for good in the world. The absence of phones and rare presence of a social space that draws us into our bodies is a potent tool in a world fraught by social isolation, division, and uncertainty.

Yoneda’s vision is the kind that inspires me to write about and share both his works and saunas across both Japan and the world.  

Influence:

Yoneda’s influence is easy to find within the Japanese sauna community.

Outside of the success of Wellbe and Sauna Lab, he has continued to be an active part of the sauna boom. In the first season of Sado, Yoneda even makes an appearance at Wellbe. Cued with the titular “Godfather Theme” to fit his nickname, the show did a great job of presenting him as a towering, yet unassuming figure in the Japanese sauna community. 

His influence extends beyond his nationwide reach (with saunas in Nagoya, Fukuoka, and Tokyo at the moment), representing Japan abroad as well.  Outside of Japan, Yoneda is a part of the International Sauna Association, and is listed as a supporting member on their website. This has helped Japan get on stage at events such as the International Sauna Congress (yes, really).

Final Thoughts:

Like most who find themselves in the global sauna community, Yoneda is an eccentric, one of a kind visionary. Both his material and philosophical visions are distinctive and unprecedented.

As he puts it:

“I truly believe that saunas will save the world”

I hope that, in time, the world will follow suit.

Thank you for reading. Wishing you happy sauna sessions and for ととのうin your future…

 

Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

Sado: The Genesis of the Japanese Sauna Boom

Sado: The Genesis of the Japanese Sauna Boom

The meteoric rise of sauna in Japan can be attributed to several factors: COVID, a preexisting bath culture, a general interest in health and longevity. But perhaps no single factor was as powerful as “Sado” (サ道), a sauna manga (Japanese style comic) released in 2016. By 2019, Sado received an adaptation as a television drama, catapulting saunas into superstar status in Japan. 

Sado: A Chronology: 

Origins (2011):

In 2011, Katsuki Tanaka (stylized as タナカカツキ in Japanese) published his original novel “サ道” or “Sado”. This translates into English as “Way of the Sauna”, using the サ katakana character used in サウナ (phonetically-SA-U-NA), followed by the character 道, which in this context, translates to “way” or “path” (in other cases, it can mean road, route, or street). While I have not (yet) read the original novel, summaries in Japanese describe the author’s path to sauna addiction and his discoveries about the essence of sauna along the way. Prior to Sado’s publication, saunas conjured an image of older men relaxing (see the first Japanese sauna boom), leaving the younger generations in Japan anything but enchanted with saunas. The initial publication effectively introduced sauna to a younger generation of Japan, changing the trajectory of Japanese saunas entirely. Now, saunas are as trendy as it gets, a far cry from their decrepit image just a few decades prior.

Manga (2016):

The original work accrued enough of a following for Mr. Tanaka to expand on it by creating a manga based on his original novel. Already an experienced manga artist, Tanaka was able to hit the ground running with Sado. Shortly after its release in 2016, Sado was a major hit.  

With the manga release of Sado coinciding with rise of social media in Japan, many sento (public baths) received requests vis SNS Message and X/Twitter to add a sauna. Many of these came from excited Sado fans, newly converted to regular sauna use.  Today, it’s nearly impossible to find a sento without a sauna!

In 2017, Sauna Ikitai (literally “I want to go to the sauna”), a sauna database launched (see my article for more information), compiling sauna knowledge in Japan to one easy-to-find place. Far from a rarity, now saunners could search the top-rated saunas in their area with ease.

At the moment, Sado is one of my primary forms of reading practice in Japanese! While I have not yet finished the series, there are currently six volumes of Sado, and I look forward to reading them all in the near future! 

Television Drama (2019):

In 2019, Sado received an adaptation as a television drama. At this point, sauna had accrued a fairly large degree of popularity in Japan. 

What makes the drama stand out (having watched it myself), is each episode’s inclusion of various sauna from all across Japan (often Tokyo, but not always). I have discovered saunas through Sado, and their choices never disappoint!  For instance, the “home sauna” of the show’s protagonists is a real sauna in Ueno: Sauna and Capsule Hotel Hokuo. Visiting was a blast, and having watched the show drastically enhanced my experience. Sado aside, the facilities are nothing to scoff at either. A great outdoor bath (露天風呂) and top notch Aufguss make it an excellent choice for the show.

Several arcs of the show involve characters taking trips outside of their native Tokyo to other parts of Japan, including Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe) and Kyushu (Japan’s southernmost island), typically for sauna related purposes. 

If you get the chance to visit saunas featured in Sado, the owners often hang up memorabilia from the episode (signed posters, for example), which makes it extra fun to visit the venues selected for the show. 

The show continues today, with an hour-long special most recently being released in December, 2023.

The three main characters at Sauna and Capsule Hotel Hokuo in Ueno.

Sado: Plot and Reading Experience:

Manga:

As mentioned above, I have been working my way through the Sado manga myself. I recently finished the first volume and was a huge fan! The chapters typically cover aspects of the sauna experience, Japanese sauna culture, or both. Chapter titles include: “ Sauna High” (サウナトランス)、”The Correct Way to Sauna” （正しいサウナの入り方）, and “Tattoos Not Allowed” (刺青お断り). Generally, the plots revolve around the main character, Nakagawa Tatsuya, and his journey into Japanese sauna culture. Along the way, he typically experiences a mix of comedic and heartwarming interactions. These include interactions with saunners from outside Japan (Finland, the United States, etc.), making new friends, and debates around differing sauna cultures. One of my favorites is an entire chapter “The Sauna-room TV Problem” (サウナ室テレビ問題)  dedicated to the topic of TV’s in the sauna. Generally, Japanese saunners prefer to watch TV in the sauna, where the Finnish treat the sauna as a silent sanctuary at all costs. 

Stretching this out over an entire chapter must have been hard to write, but Tanaka delivers in a manner showcasing both his skills as a mangaka (author of manga, 漫画家 in Japanese) and as an astute observer of sauna culture.

Additionally, I find the art style to be distinct from other manga, especially from action-oriented manga that are most popular outside of Japan (Dragon Ball, One Piece, Naruto, etc.). Many of the shots are atmospheric, and capture the sauna experience incredibly well. From the budding friendships that form, to the one-of-a-kind high that only sauna can produce, it’s easy to tell that this love letter to sauna comes straight from the author’s heart.

The manga is currently not available in English, but for those who can read Japanese and want a light read, I highly recommend Sado! Even if you can’t read Japanese, the pictures alone are fun to look at, and may still be worth a purchase (you can typically get the first volume for around 300 yen, or $2.00 USD).

Sauna -> Cold bath -> Totonou/ととのう

Drama: 

The drama centers around three characters, Mr. Tanaka (タナカ), Mr. Coincidence (偶然さん), and Mr. Handsome (イケメンさん) and their sauna escapades. Perhaps the most interesting part of the show are the saunas featured around Japan (as mentioned above). This aspect of the show is particularly fun if you live in or have visited Japan. I have found many of the best sauna spots in Tokyo through Sado, including (but not limited to): Marushin Spa, Times Spa Resta, and Sauna Lab. Sado does a great job of showcasing saunas in a way that makes them look enticing to visit, particularly for those located outside of Tokyo (many that are now on my list when I travel around Japan).

Amazing saunas aside, the antics of the gang range from quirks particular to Japanese humor to funny gags any saunner can relate to. Some of my favorites include: a Godfather parody to introduce the “sauna Godfather” (サウナゴッドファザー) (a real person who helped popularize sauna in Nagoya,), a truck driver who frequents a love hotel for the sole purpose of using their sauna, and nearly getting caught trying to work from home at the sauna cafe. 

The show is goofy, and has a bit of an ‘off-Broadway’ feel, but has an endearing charm at its core, and writes a wonderful love letter to both sauna and the Japanese sauna community.

The show is available on Netflix in Japan only, but can be accessed by using a VPN. While the show is currently only in Japanese, I still think the watching the show still has value, even without full or limited comprehension of Japanese. Many of the scenes transcend the dialogue, and the facilities shown and the sauna highs induced go beyond subtitles. 

Final Thoughts: 

Sado is the kind of phenomenon that’s hard to believe exists. “Sauna comic book” and “Sauna television drama” both sound like they could only conceivably exist in Finland, and even then, it sounds a bit absurd. However, after reading and watching the series, it makes sense why it’s been such a hit and one of the driving forces behind the ongoing  sauna boom. Behind its charming drawings and TV adaption, Sado effectively distills the distinct and idiosyncratic nature of both the sauna experience and Japanese sauna culture. The time away from screens and the outside world, the one-of-a-kind friendships that stem from sauna, and the unique sauna high that doesn’t have any real equivalent…. 

…for those who have experienced any of these, give Sado a try. 

Thanks so much for reading! I hope you enjoyed it. Keep your sauna on as fall arrives in Japan, and I hope you find some　ととのう　in your near future…

Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

Sauna Methods: Various Paths to Sauna Enlightenment

When talking to prospective new saunners, I am often met with enthusiasm, followed by “…but I feel like I’m doing it wrong…”

So long as you are staying hydrated, not pushing too hard, and listening to your body, there’s not a wrong way to sauna.

That said, many facilities (both in and outside Japan) have developed methods that promise the best sauna high, skin cleanse, or what have you. In Japanese, this is known as 整え方, translating to “how to totonou/ achieve a sauna high”.  I have found saunas will increasingly list their suggestions for how to attain totonou (ととのう). I don’t believe in a singular bulletproof method that works all the time for everyone. That said, I think that:

  1. So many individual factors play into the experience, including what you ate, how you slept, how hydrated you are, that even the same method can give you drastically different results on a given day. This makes a blanket prescription for how to achieve totonou short of ever being bulletproof. It can be a great guide, but you will have to try different tactics overtime to more consistently get the most out of your sauna experience (leading to my next point)
  2. Ultimately, you will need to experiment with what works best for you. Once you start building a sauna practice, you will start experimenting, listening to how your body feels after trying a given method. Mixing and matching methods, understanding what works best relative to certain temperatures and different facilities, and other considerations are paramount to building your sauna routine.

For those who are in Japan, and aren’t sure where to start, here is my default recommendation. *

*Note. I am not a doctor. If you are concerned about any underlying health conditions that would potentially interfere with your experience, please consult a medical professional.

My suggestion:

  • Start with a warm bath.
  • Sauna
  • Cold plunge
  • Relax (5-10 minutes)

Repeat as many times as desired.

I typically go for 2-3 on a standard outing, and extend if I have extra time/want a more intense sauna high. That said, more does NOT necessarily equal better, and I wouldn’t describe it as such. If you are just getting into sauna, one or two rounds will likely be more than enough.

Beginner Guidelines:

  • (Sauna) When in doubt, get out. You are likely still learning how listen to your body. In the modern world where we are increasingly out of touch with our kinetic instincts, you may needlessly push yourself beyond what is optimal (more on this below). More does not always equal better. Start slow, and you can build up over time in needed. I find five minutes on the lowest bench is often a great place to start, but if you can’t do this to start, there is nothing to be worried about!
  • Cold Plunge. Use the water ladle (picture below) to wash off. Start with the outer extremities of your body (hands, feet), and gradually pour inwards. As a beginner, I often suggest avoiding full submersion into the cold plunge. Start with the ladle, and if you feel ready, dip your feet in. At most, I would suggest slowly entering the cold plunge, and getting out once submerged. Just this will, for most people, be invigorating and foreign.
    • Pay particular attention to the temperature of the cold plunge here. Cold pools (水風呂) 20 degrees or higher will be a better entry point than anything 15 degrees or below. As a beginner, 10 degrees or lower will likely be excruciating, and I would avoid it until you feel ready. This part of the experience is the most extreme. As such, exercise the most caution when using the cold pool.
  • R E L A X. Most guides suggest you find a chair (plentiful in nearly any facility), pat dry off, and sit for 5-10 minutes. This will allow your body temperature
  • IF you feel up for it, go for another round. A rule of thumb that I like to use so I’m not glued to the clock, is that once your legs are naturally dry (assuming you pat dried with your face towel), your skin will feel refreshed and ready for another round.  
  • I always consider my first round a warm up round. Starting with the bath especially, my core temperature will be a bit higher, and I won’t be in the full swing of things. It’s completely okay to start lighter.

Side Note:

There is a tendency I hear, particularly with men, to view how long they can spend in the sauna as a point of pride, and even an extension of their character, and masculinity in the case of men.

Recently, I was traveling outside Japan and overheard the following conversation in a gym sauna:

“Yeah, it’s supposed to hurt. It’s supposed to be pain. You’re not supposed to enjoy it. Come on, stay in longer”.

I couldn’t think of a less true statement. For several reasons.

  1. Sauna injuries are real. Full stop. While incredibly rare, they are near either the domain of people needlessly pushing themselves beyond reason, or people touching parts of the sauna that shouldn’t be touched (it happens more than you’d think…). I’ve seen people pass out, shivering for hours afterwards, and burn skin  (all of these have been outside of Japan, in places with less established sauna and bathing cultures). None of these are remotely normal, and all of these cases were 100% preventable if the individuals had applied (repeat after me) common sense and basic safety protocols. Listen. To. Your. Body.
    1. Anecdotally, the presence of alcohol is a commonality between around half of the injuries I see. If you’ve been drinking, save the sauna for another day. It’s simply not worth it.
  2. How you feel in the sauna is variable on so many different things, including: what you ate that day, hydration that day, sleep, exercise, mood, the weather. Like how this will affect your sauna tactics, it should also inform when to take it easy. The race against your ego is a race to nowhere. True in life and in sauna.
  3. More is NOT always better. A common example for me. If I sauna in the morning, I have to be careful not to do too many rounds or push my limits, or I will end up too tired and relaxed for the rest of the day.
    1. See below for my recommendation on a lighter, morning circuit!
    1. If you aren’t hydrated, or ate a lot of food beforehand, or were out in the sun all day and walk in with a high core temperature, more can be disastrous. A lighter session can be just what your body needs in some cases (if sauna is appropriate in the given circumstances).

That being said, on a weekend where I have the time, if I feel up for it, adding an extra round or two more than normal can help me feel deeper sensations, help me sleep and relax, and unwind for the week. It’s all about context and knowing what you need. Different tools for different situations. Having different sauna tactics and routines is about having a toolbox to get the job done in a variety of circumstances. Overtime, you will develop an array of tactics that will become second nature to you, naturally integrating into your sauna experience. With that in mind, here are a few places to get started for those curious about building off of a beginner’s routine.

SAUNA GUIDES: 整え方

Note: These aren’t hard and fast. Experiment with these as you like. There are plenty of ways to sauna- here are just to get started.

“Adopt what is useful. Discard what is useless”– Bruce Lee.

With that in mind, enjoy!

That feel when you find your right routine… (image from the Way of the Sauna manga)

Russian Style: (Intermediate)

  • Warm up (shower, warm bath/hot tub, etc.)
  • Sauna
  • Cold Plunge
  • Repeat sanua and cold cycle 2-3 times (in immediate succession)
  • Relax (as long as needed)

Repeat as needed.

Notably absent: vodka. I do NOT recommend adding this to your routine…

Russian banya (literally “bath” in Russian), is characterized by its parilka (Russian style sauna), which looks like a wood-fired pizza oven, opposed to a Finnish style sauna heater/stove. The focus is generally on a lower humidity and higher heat (between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius, or 175-215 Farenheit, with 15-25% humidity) than a Finnish style sauna (80-90 degrees Celsius/ with about 20-40% humidity, depending on the loyly). That said, this is just an average, and temperatures can vary between locations. The lower humidity allows the heat to be a bit higher while remaining tolerable. Due to the higher heat, I have found the cold pools tend to be a bit more extreme than a lot of Finnish style locations (however, I imagine this isn’t the case in Finland, since going into an actual lake is most common there).

In terms of sauna habits, this tends to result in a more fast paced, hot-cold-hot-cold back and forth. It’s certainly not for the inexperienced, but once you’ve built up to it and can try it safely, it’s a thrill!

Going directly from hot to cold can be incredibly exhilarating! But it can also be a shock to the heart if you have underlying conditions or a lack of experience, so I wouldn’t recommend this unless you are both an experienced saunner and don’t have any underlying heart conditions.

Morning Circuit:

  • Keep it around an hour, hour and a half. No more than two.
  • Two rounds recommended. I would discourage more than 3 unless you want to be really tired for the rest of the day.
  • Go lighter on the sauna, focus on the cold.
  • End on the cold plunge. It’s not necessarily intuitive (especially in the winter), but I find it keeps you energized and awake, rather than too sleepy to take on the rest of the day.

I love this one, and its taken me some experimentation to dial it in. I tend to go into my day more grounded, carrying a more centered inner peace after this routine. My hope is that it gives you the same.

Carbonated Baths: (炭酸泉)

The carbonated bath is a staple of many sento around Japan. It took me a while to really take full advantage of it. Here is a summary of the few tips I have seen.

  • It takes a bit for bubbles to form on your skin. Don’t move around too much and be patient
  • I would suggest staying in for ten to fifteen minutes. Based on the guides I have seen in Japanese, there isn’t really a benefit to staying in longer than 15 minutes. More does not equal better here.
  • I really enjoy using this bath at the end, particularly before bed. It really knocks me out and gets me ready for a good night’s sleep!

Venue Specific Recommendations:

Here are a few found at specific saunas I have visited. I may update with more in the future, but here are a few to get started for now!

Corridor no yu: (with the cute picture guide pamphlet)

I came across this one while visiting Ginza Granbell Square’s Hotel Sauna. This pamphlet was avaliable at the front desk and I loved it enough to hold on to it!

The English isn’t perfect, but it gets the point across!

Sauna Dojo Guide (on the wall in Japanese):

  1. Dry off before entering sauna
  2. Enter the sauna. 5-10 minutes.
  3. Wash off your body.
  4. Cold plunge
  5. Relax.
  6. Repeat.

SkySpa Yokohama Guide:

For those looking for a bit more of a detailed explanation of the standard Japanese 整え方 (Totonou Method)

Conclusion:

My aim is to provide tools to help navigate your sauna journey. While there are lots of options, my goal is not to overwhelm, but to help guide. There are lots of effective sauna tactics, just keep in mind the following as you experiment:

  1. Use common sense
  2. Listen to your body
  3. Stay hydrated
  4. Keep experimenting and tweaking routines overtime to best suit your needs.

I may continue to add to this guide/write a follow up overtime if this is helpful to readers.

I hope you find some totonou in your week and in your life…. More articles to come soon. Take care and I hope you find a 整え方 that works for you!

Sento Sensei Uncategorized

I went to an all-night Sauna event in Shibuya!

Rooftop DJ in the Heart of Shibuya. Food from the menu of a Michelin Chef. German wellness rituals using high class essential oils. While this may sound like a page out of a Tokyo elite’s diary entry, this was my experience at Shibuya Saunas’ all-night event that I attended this month!

I went into the deep end of Tokyo’s sauna scene for an immersive, one-of-a-kind experience. Much like any trip to Shibuya Saunas, it did not disappoint. The following is my attempt to put such a profoundly unique, inexplicable experience into words, and convey the scene as best as I can.

11:45: Lining Up

Making sure to get there plenty early, I arrived 15 minutes prior to the start of the event. At this point, there were already 15+ people ahead of me in line. I could hear the DJ sound system warming up from outside the building. Just before midnight, the line wrapped around the block, with about 40-50 people snaking around the building in line.

I can feel the excitement building, and maybe even a bit of nerves for what this event could possibly be like.

12:00

Promptly at midnight, a staff member comes out and welcomes everyone to the event. He explains that two individuals will be called at a time, and to please wait patiently. The process feels like waiting to get into the new hottest nightclub in town, or a midnight movie release.

12:05: Entry Process

When it is finally my turn, I enter the building and am asked for my name. Once I am checked off the sheet, I am ushered to a desk, reminiscent of one you would see to check in at a conference, or workshop sort of event. Several wristbands with times on them are out on the table, indicating entry times for the various Aufguss sessions. I chose the 2:00 AM session in the Musta sauna, timing it for around an hour after my complimentary meal.

Limited Edition file and sticker for the event. Very goofy and fun.

I am given complimentary loungewear for the evening, as well as a limited-edition paper file and sticker commemorating the event. After, I am given an instructional sheet, and explained the rules and events for the evening. Once I am briefed, I head to my assigned locker to start the event.

12:30: Gearing up to Sauna

I take a minute to view my surroundings. So many saunas to choose from… I decide to head upstairs, curious about the DJ for the event.

Entering the garden, I am instantly surrounded by 30+ men in sauna hats surrounding the DJ booth outside the Tuuli sauna on the far end of the roof. The DJ, adorning a sauna hat, a towel around his neck, and swim trunks, looks over as I enter. I later find out that he will be giving an Aufguss session at the event, with another DJ taking over for the remainder of the night. I can already tell this event will be anything but normal…

Once I adjust to the DJ in the middle of the sauna complex, I head to the warm, cabin-like Teeta sauna. Packed to the brim, I suddenly remember that it’s well past midnight. Yet I’m in a sauna in the heart of Shibuya! After a few minutes and a nice loyly, I head for my first cold plunge of the night. Refreshing as always, I sit down and soak in the ethereal DJ mixes playing around me (many coming from DJ Chee Shimizu).

Imagine this with a DJ in a sauna hat to your right…

As I meander, I notice that the doorway is open to the other side of the facility, which is normally separated and assigned to men and women separately. Since this is a men’s only event, attendees had access to all nine (!) sauna’s the facility has to offer. I walk back and forth a few times to relish in the novelty. After some sauna sessions downstairs, I start to get a little hungry…

1:00: Complimentary Meal

Looking at the time card for my meal voucher, I decide to head downstairs. Enough food to tide me over, but I leave enough space that I won’t feel to heavy during the Aufguss session in an hour. The complimentary meal includes a cold noodle dish with a fruit mix on top. Nice, light, and tasty, it serves as an excellent mid sauna meal. Rejuvinated, I head back up to make it in time for one quick sauna cycle before Aufguss.

Author’s Note: Because I misread my time card, I unfortunately missed the “Intro to Whisking” (see here) event. This event looked fantastic, and I hope to attend next year to report on it!

2:00: Aufguss

MUSTA SAUNA (venue for the Aufguss session)

As I head from the Vihta sauna to head to Aufguss (hoping to get one last dip in the cold plunge), I am ushered to the Musta sauna (I did not end up cold plunging in between…). Along with five to seven others, we are greeted by the Aufgussmeister (practitioner of Aufguss). Applying the first scented loyly to the water, the practitioner gives each of us essential oils into our cupped hands, explaining to apply it to our chest and neck.

From the opposite side of the sauna, the practitioner pulls out a towel suspended by two poles, much like a banner. Waving it around the room, the fragrance immediately makes itself known, and the heat intensifies. Just when it causes me to break a sweat, two metallic funnels appear with a handheld switch mechanism. The Aufgussmeister loads them up with water, and asks me to lean forward. Cool, refreshing water is poured across my feet, head, and back. I feel rejuvenated, ready for more.

A second loyly ensues, along with more towel waving. Another use of the funnels, but this time, it is with lukewarm, essential oil infused water. More essential oils for our chest and neck are passed out. Afterwards, we are given an ice cube, and instructed to place it in our mouth. After a few moments, I taste a bit of a surprise- it’s infused with mint! Between the heat, essential oils, and cooling mint taste, my senses are fully occupied.

After one last towel wave, we applaud and head for the cold plunge. It feels like pure relief, as I stay in for what feels like several minutes.

3:00: Totonou

I emerge from the cold plunge and sit down. I close my eyes. I feel an overwhelming sense of euphoria. This goes possibly beyond totonou　（ととのう） and transcends into what might have been considered an out of body experience. My whole body feels like it’s smiling. I am fully present in the moment, not wanting to be anywhere else but here. I sit in presence for what felt like around ten minutes.

I opened my eyes and felt jolted back to reality. The people surrounding me have changed, I suddenly notice. I felt almost as if I was waking up, despite having lots of energy after my experience. I slowly enjoy another sauna session or two, taking it easy after such an intense Aufguss session.

3:30: More Food

After such an intense sauna high, I suddenly notice that I’m hungry. I change and head downstairs. After some contemplation, I settle on some Oropo (Pocari Sweat and Oramin C beverage) (オロぽ) and vegetable curry.

The man next to me is editing some sauna photos on his computer. Some patrons at the table across from me are enjoying a beer, chatting with one another.

Before I head back up, I go to the front desk to buy a shirt. I wanted something to commemorate the experience, so it felt appropriate. After asking his recommendations, I purchase the shirt and bring it up to my locker.

4:00: A Second Wind, and the gift of Midnight Loyly

After four hours of on-and-off sauna , I thought I would be done for the night. Oh how wrong I was. More energized than when I started, I head back upstairs for a final stretch of sauna glory. I start just wandering around a bit. As I bask in the growing morning sunlight on the rooftop deck, I meander over towards the Kelo sauna. Joined by one other patron, one of the Aufguss practitioners (also the first DJ of the night) asks us if we would to use the remainder of the scented water for the loyly?

We make eye contact and both nod in agreement. The practitioner comments how hot it is in the sauna, and teases us for accepting the loyly in the heat (just under 100 degrees, 212 in Farenheit).

The loyly is a mix of oak and flower, お花. He claims that the floral notes make it optimal for use right before bed, for the last aufguss of the night. The elusive ミドナイトロウリュ, midnight loyly. He isn’t mistaken. The scent is heavenly, and I savor every minute of it before going in for one last cold plunge round.

At this point, I feel invincible, enlightened, and emboldened. The sauna euphoria and the all-nighter second wind leave me feeling unstoppable. I lie down on the nearby bench and just smile and look at the now bright sky. Five minutes pass by. Then another five. As the time rolls by, I head downatairs to sneak in one last sauna round for the night.

5:00: Wrapping it up

Lying in the bed sauna for a last round for a few minutes, the staff goes to each sauna and informs us it is time to start exiting the sauna. I promptly head to the showers, tidy up, and change.

As I am heading downstairs, patrons are engaging with the staff, snapping a few photos, and a few even seem to have made new friends. That’s the power of sauna. I proceed to check out and thank the staff for hosting such a wonderful event. On the way out, we are each handed a complimentary non-alcoholic beer (Asahi) for the road. I save it for when I get home and head towards the dawn-lit Shibuya station. Nearly empty (a rarity for the world’s second busiest subway station), I grab a quick snack and head home (trying desperately not to fall asleep on the train.

Strange seeing so few people in the heart of Shibuya…

Final Thoughts

Overall, the event was fantastic! Shibuya Saunas did an excellent job of hosting, and I hope similar events catch on at other sauna’s around Japan (and hopefully worldwide!). I wasn’t sure how a DJ, all-nighter, and sauna were going to mix, but it all blended seamlessly.

Thank you for reading! I hope you enjoyed reading about something a bit different than my usual reviews and informative pieces. More articles are in the works for the coming weeks, so stay tuned…

Sento Sensei Articles, Uncategorized

Miyano-yu: A sento cafe in the heart of Nezu, Tokyo.

This past weekend, I checked out a sento-related venue that’s been on my list for some time now. However, there was no bathing or sweating involved on this trip. At Miyano-yu, they’ve swapped the baths for coffee! While I decided to visit on a bit of a whim, Miyano-yu has been on my radar for quite some time.  Naturally, I couldn’t help but be curious about a sento café.

After a quick look at Miyano-yu’s official website, one can see their commitment and understanding of communal bathing’s power to connect others, and its relevance in contemporary society.The description on Miyano-yu’s history page of their official website sums this up nicely:

“Overcoming the rough and tumble of the early postwar years, this place has continued to keep people connected as a place of communication in the community.

[…] in 2008, the 57-year history of the public bathhouse came to an end once and for all, but in 2021 MIYANO-YU opened as a new community place. We will take over the name of MIYANO-YU and recreate the role that public bathhouses once played as the center of the local community in the modern age.

Through various creators and events, we aim to become a new symbol of the city and a place for transmitting new culture that transcends the boundaries between “age and generation,” “locals and tourists,” and “Japan and the rest of the world.”

Personally, I found the transition between bathing and coffee to be brilliant. While public baths in Japan were born out of a necessity (keeping the public clean) they gradually evolved into an extension of the public sphere, similar to coffee houses in Enlightenment-era England. Even today, coffee-shops are still great places to catch up with old friends, go on a date, or just unwind. Linking two historic public spheres at Miyano-yu is a stroke of genius that taps in to what makes communal bathing (and sauna) so special.

At the helm is Emi Osato, the manager and general point-person for Miyano-yu, and she takes coffee very seriously. With a background at Sensing Touch of Earth coffee in nearby Asakusa, Osato brings her experience in the coffee world to match the impressive aesthetics of Miyano-yu.

Kenchiku Saikou Kikaku （建築最高企画）carried out the restoration of the building and oversaw the transformation into a coffee shop. The architectural firm, literally translating to Best Plan Architecture, specializes in restoring vacant, historic buildings with an emphasis on preserving their heritage and identity (such buildings are common in a country with a rapidly declining population). A project like Miyano-yu is seemingly right up their alley.

From the firm’s outline for the project on their website:

“The building owner, Suzuwa Jisho, requested us to change the use of the building from a public bath to a complex facility. The architectural reconstruction project was based on [the building owner] Suzuwa Jisho’s vision of “making the public bath a place that people can enjoy for a long time”. We valued this and limited the improvements to the facility to the bare minimum necessary for the change of use, providing the necessary hardware support to make this vision a reality.”

After visiting in person, I can testify to the integrity of the sento feeling intact at Miyano-yu. The dedication to preservation and innovation is impressive, making the results all the more enjoyable to experience.

My Experience:

In the quiet yet trendy Nezu neighborhood, the home of the famous Nezu Shrine, lined with ample trendy coffee shops around the corner hosts one coffee house that stands out among the rest. Sitting next a giant tower with “SENTO” written in English across the length of the structure, you might expect to see a public bath. This isn’t entirely inaccurate…. but fails to tell the entire story.

Just like its neighoring storefronts, Miyano-yu specializes in coffee, while maintaining the core structure of the old bath house. Miyano-yu preserves the aesthetic and role of the bath as a community space, while bringing it into the 21st century in perhaps the best way to attract 20-30 something customers and travelers: high end coffee and Instagram-able Japanese aesthetics.

Entering the store, the storefront is strikingly modern, with nothing loudly screaming “public bath” upon first glance (considering this is where food and drinks are handled, this is probably a good thing). However, upon further investigation, a repurposed shoe locker (ubiquitous of old school sento) next to a front desk-sized counter appears, revealing traces of the old bathhouse.Upon ordering your coffee, your table number will be held with the wooden sento shoe-locker blocks that seal and secure the locker doors.

Entrance of Miyano-yu

The majority of the main café is inside what used to be the main bathing area. The tiles, windows, and even some of the washing stations are left intact. Instead of warm baths and naked patrons, you will find chatting customers (both locals and international guests) and lush greenery in this hip coffee shop.

The natural lighting of the sento turns out to be a great fit for a coffee shop. The expansive windows typical of old school sento (to let the humidity circulate) make for a great coffee shop atmosphere. Who would have thought!

Taking in your surroundings, relaxing background music that would fit in a Playstation 1 or Nintendo 64 game’s menu screen plays in the background.  All of this merges in an eclectic yet cohesive and immersive, laid-back experience.

Oh, did I mention that the coffee is amazing? I honestly wasn’t thinking much about beverage quality when I walked into the shop. Frankly, I was overjoyed that a sento coffee shop existed, and would be happy with anything. That said, I was pleasantly surprised, bordering on shocked with the high quality of the coffee.  

Matcha Latte (will try on my next visit…)

While I am not as much of a coffee enthusiast as I am with sauna/sento, I do know a bit about coffee (thanks to some friends more familiar with the craft), and visit roasters and shops around Tokyo every so often.

I went with a simple iced late (hard to mess up), and it really hit the spot. Visiting with a friend, they had an espresso and left just as satisfied as I did. While I didn’t try on my visit, Miyano-yu is known for its’ matcha latte. Upon my next visit, I am eager to give the drink a try. The matcha is sourced from the Shizuoka region of Japan, and is a testament to the attention to detail at Miyano-yu.

The open lighting, lush greenery, and sento mural mesh so naturally in the shop.

Located in Bunkyo ward, it’s about a 20 minute walk from Ueno Station, and only a 2 minute walk from Nezu Station. For the sento enthusiasts, coffee lovers, and curious Tokyo explorers, I can wholeheartedly recommend a trip to Miyano-yu!

Thanks for reading! Stay tuned for my next article.

Sento Sensei Uncategorized

Design Spotlight: Kentaro Imai

I was first introduced to Mr. Imai’s work through a Time Out Tokyo article I stumbled upon, which focused on his vision of reinventing public bathing for a new generation of Japanese bathers. Discovering that sauna and bathing wasn’t merely something that felt good, but had culture significance and encouraged creative expression absolutely blew my mind. Sold on his vision, I felt determined to one day visit Mr. Imai’s new “designer sento”.

In the nearly seven years since I read Imai’s feature in Time Out Tokyo, sauna and sento have flourished as a creative medium throughout Japan. Sauna books, magazines, TV shows, breweries and entire fashion lines have spawned, often fusing elements of Japanese and Finnish culture in a truly unique way. Imai’s vision of a public bath revival is being embraced by the new generation of Japanese bathers/Saunners, further establishing his expertise and position in the community. It goes without saying that the man synonymous with “designer sento” has a lot ideas worth exploring.

BACKGROUND:

Sakae-yu

Mr. Imai has a background in architecture, and while he focuses on sento, his firm has also worked on residential and commercial buildings. Even in non-bathing facility projects, his distinct intentional minimalism and “evolution, not revolution” principle is visible, which can be seen on his portfolio.

Born in Shizuoka Prefecture about two and a half hours from Tokyo, he went on to pursue interior design in university. Initially planning to focus on industrial design, an initial exposure to Antoni Gaudi’s* architecture helped him change course. In his own words :

“When it comes to architecture, there are many other elements that come into play apart from pure design . However, when you look at Gaudi’s architecture*, that concept completely disappears. Citizens see art in their daily lives and live inside that art. It’s not just [about] logic, it’s the sense of necessity between the creator and the user, and I think it’s amazing. I really liked how it felt like it was used on a daily basis, like Park Güell [in Barcelona], a church, or an apartment complex . A space outside of books and museums as public art. Now that I think about it, I feel that it is surprisingly connected to public baths.” (translated from Google and edited for clarity)

*Catalan architect, best known as the original for the ongoing Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.

Sagrada Familia (interior) (Gaudi’s magnum opus)

Retrospectively, Imai also cites the famous manga “Thermae Romae”, the story of an ancient Roman architect transported to modern Japan and experiences Japanese public bathing, as an influence. Jokingly, he refers to himself as something of a “reverse Thermae Romae“, looking at ancient Roman architecture to help design some of his baths.

Going on to graduate from Musahino Art University with a masters in design in 1992, he went on to work for several architecture firms before establishing Kentaro Imai Architectural Office in 1998. While Imai is known for his work on public bathhouses, it wasn’t in his initial plans to focus on sento. After visiting a sento in Tokyo’s Kitasenju neighborhood, a regular customer suggested he try his hand at public baths. As a regular sento patron himself, he found the idea interesting and pursued it. Unlike other fields of architecture, public bathing design lacked any books covering design, floor plans, or anything specific to building and remodeling sento. Imai found his niche. As a result, Imai conducted independent research to break into the public bath design world. Looking back on an early remodeling experience:

“I am truly grateful to the owner of “Ohirayu” in Adachi Ward, as the first [connection] in the public bath industry is very important. Thinking back on it now, I feel that they allowed newcomers to work in this closed industry.”

Today, having worked on 28 bathing/sauna facilities (including one outside of Japan in Taiwan), Imai’s firm is at the forefront of the sauna boom, and is a pivotal force in the accompanying sento revival.

PHILOSOPHY

Matsuno-yu

Evolution, not revolution

At the core of Imai’s design philosophy, he combines “nostalgia with newness” in his own words.

“Another primary vision I value when designing a bathroom [bathhouse] is to create a space that combines a sense of nostalgia with newness. Traditionally, Japanese people enjoy a variety of forms and styles of bath, such as steam baths, hot springs, public bathhouses, super sento, home baths, spas, and saunas. In other words, bathing is a part of the traditional culture essential to Japanese. I believe tradition should be passed down from generation to generation while integrating conservational elements with evolution. As a representative space, it is reasonable to create a bathing space design that offers a sense of nostalgia and newness at the same time. Newness and nostalgia are defined as simplicity, which may lead to the idea for the space.”

A hallmark of his style, Imai masterfully strikes the balance of preserving the local character of a sento and adding new elements that make his projects’ distinctly modern. The result? A modern reimagining of historic bath houses that bring out their full potential. Succinctly put, this style is about “evolution, not revolution“

Further expanding on this design philosophy in a Time Out Tokyo article:

“In order to make sure that this tradition lives on into the future, I try to leave the original style and details of bathhouses intact while adding new elements that make the experience more pleasant. Ideally, the result feels both new and familiar.”

Imai’s adamance towards preserving the integrity of a venue, while being able to use a remodel to bring that character out is inspiring, and the dedication to the craft comes through in every one of his projects. To provide a few highlighted examples from his website, his results are striking:

Fukuno-yu exterior
Okura-yu exterior
Yukko Morioka interior

While the buildings are almost unrecognizable, a careful look reveals subtle nods to the original design and the character of the surrounding neighborhood. Mr Imai’s commitment to designing baths with a specific concept, or motif in mind, is what makes these projects stand out the most.

Concept

Emphasizing the uniqueness of each bathhouse is fundamental to This is perhaps my favorite aspect of Imai. His dedication to each project’s concept and motif is unparalleled. While I have been a long time sauna/bathing fan, it was his work that showed me sauna and bathing exists as form of creative expression rather than exclusively recreation.

To give a few examples:

Kairyou-yu:

Cultural Crossing

“Our final purpose is to contribute to the reactivation of the Sento which have declined in the present age, so our challenge in this project was to show a new state of Sento with an urban function and a spatial image in a big city like Shibuya. The concept of this project was based on “cultural crossing” due to the location. To realize this concept, a practical plan and a spatial image were incorporated into the design. The idea of “cultural crossing” is used because a variety of events, workshops, and exhibitions can be held there, and both the exterior and interior walls have space to display artwork by new artists. These art-walls symbolize the cultural exchange which this space hopes to foster. Now the art-wall has became a hot spot for Instagram, and the combination of Sento, Shibuya, event space was well received to be fresh & exciting. KAIRYO-YU has gathered many people after the renovation and has became a hot topic as one of the stories of a reviving Sento. It will spark a new beginning for Sento by appealing to the younger generation. We believe the success of this project will bring a huge merit to the preservation of Japanese traditional culture and the healthy-beauty lifestyle of city dwellers in Japan.”

Mikoku-yu

Edo Style Sento in the Present Era

“MIKOKU-YU is standing near the birthplace of Hokusai Katsushika*, that has an atmosphere of deep down town of Tokyo. It’s located in the center of the spots which have become the face of Edo/Tokyo such as Asakusa, Ryogoku and Honjo-Azumabashi along with the “Sky tree”. The design concept was set as “Edo style Sento in the present era” and the design was developed based on uncolored wood usage and colors reminiscent of Edo.”

*Hokusai Katsushika is the renowned ukiyo-e artist of the world renowned “Great Wave off Kanagawa”painting.

Both bathhouses have incredibly different, yet focused themes that they are based around. I chose to highlight these two due to their vastly different themes. On one hand, Kairyou-yu looks to the modern, cutting edge neighborhood of Shibuya as a creative muse. On the other, Mikoku-yu looks to the historic past of downtown Tokyo to find inspiration. Despite their radically different designs, but commit to a unique and cohesive theme that give both spaces an individuality to them. As a bather, this is precisely what makes Imai’s projects such a treat. Much like a skilled film director, each work has its own identity, but his portfolio as a whole can be identified by his design principles and style.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Corridor-no-Yu

Mr. Imai’s work has touched what seems like every corner of Tokyo, with outposts extending outside of the city. His works are an absolute delight to experience, and greatly enrich my day with every location I visit. The world would be a much better place with more architecture like his in it. For anyone interested in the forefront sento revival in Tokyo, any of Imai’s projects are a great place to start.

Selected Quote

“There’s another thing I care about when it comes to architectural design. I would like to make sure that each bathhouse [that I design] has a unique space. For this reason, when I design each bathhouse, I decide on the initial concept before starting on the design. For me, each bathhouse has a distinctive character that makes it unique. It could be the bathhouse’s tradition or local history.”

-Kentaro Imai [excerpt from “Mikokuyu, Sauna Channel Interview]

Goshiki-yu

Author’s Note:

This article is the start of a new series, “Design Spotlight”, which will cover a pivotal figure or group in the Japanese sauna and sento scene. Together, we will go over the individual/group’s top contributions, as well as their high philosophy on sauna and bathing. To kick things off, I could think of no better chocie than the designer that introduced me to Japan’s bathing culture, and one of my personal favorites in the Japanese bathing and sauna scene.

I hope you enjoyed this first entry. Thank you for giving it a read! I look forward to writing more in the near future…

Sento Sensei Reviews, Uncategorized

Sauna and Hotel Karumaru

Refined. Modern. Balanced.

Tattoos Okay? No
Sauna? Yes
Price? $$$
Should I bring toiletries? No
Best For? Those looking for an equal balance of high quality baths and sauna. Anyone looking for a capsule hotel destination with a complimentary sauna experience to match.

Nearest Station: Ikebukuro Station. 3 minute walk.

Advertised as one the Kanto region’s largest sauna facilities, Karumaru has been a player on the Tokyo sauna scene for quite some time. Anyone who has been will see why it has made such a name for itself. Featuring a modern yet classic aesthetic, a great balance of baths and sauna, and amenities to match, Sauna and Hotel Karumaru is a sauna destination worth visiting. Let’s dig into what makes it stand out!

Aesthetics

Located on several high-level floors of a multi-story building near Ikebukuro station, Sauna Karumaru cultivates an oasis-like environment in an otherwise exciting and chaotic part of Tokyo.

When I think of this facility, its natural stone and wood tones are what come to mind. Maintaining a light wood motif throughout, Sauna Karumaru forces you to forget you are in urban Tokyo, and relax into your natural surroundings. From the bright wood tones in the lobby, to the calm rooftop garden hidden in the center of Ikebukuro, Sauna Karumaru puts bathers at ease from start to finish.

The venue’s overall aesthetic is enhanced by the attention to detail to non-visual senses as well, specifically smell and touch. In particular, I think of the herb selection in the steam sauna, and the use of real wood in the wood-burning sauna. Additionally, the meticulous attention to detail used to craft each of the sauna (more on that in the facilities section of this review) give each and every bath/sauna a unique sensation, not duplicated anywhere else in the facility.

As you ascend up Sauna Karumaru, the amount of greenery gradually increases, a subtle detail I appreciated. From the lack of plants in the lobby, you start to see some loose birch branches in the resting areas, then towards the top floor, you can spot a small bonsai tree, leading to the outdoor rooftop with full trees at the center of the roof. The gradual addition of plants subtly lures you into relaxing and unwinding as you retreat from the city and into the depths of the facility.

Culture/vibe

Sauna Karumaru secured a second place Saunachelin spot back in 2020, as well as a third place spot in 2021. As both an early and well recognized player in the Japanese sauna boom, Sauna Karumaru is well renowned for its variety of sauna, conscious aesthetic choices, and attention to detail. Taking a closer look, there is more going on behind the scenes that makes Sauna Karumaru standout.

Beyond being a business, two concepts are the driving force of everything that happens at Sauna Karumaru: “Human Return” (人間回帰) and “My Place” (自分の居場所). On Karumaru’s “Concept” page, “Human Return is described as:

Nature has the power to bring people back to normal.
Therefore, when people are tired, they desire nature.
However, nature is far away.
So, Karumaru is a place where people can feel nature and return to their normal selves while still being in the city.
That is one of the concepts of Karumaru.

Something I really appreciate about the description is how it emphasizes the value of nature without needing to devalue urban life. As someone who loves cities and values the urban experience, I often see a dualistic “cities are bad/nature is good” at the core of arguments to convince people to spend more time in nature. Both are absolutely important, and I appreciate the balance emphasized here. I also, as someone who loves cities, do not spend nearly enough time out in nature. Whenever I make the time to spend time in nature, removed from the constant noise of the modern world (spare a friend or two that I brought along for the ride), I always come back refreshed and recharged to better appreciate the exciting pace of my urban life.

Living in Tokyo, I have come to appreciate how the city so effectively maintains a balance between bustling urban spaces and dedicated parks, temples, and even sauna that reintegrate nature into your daily life. With essential oils, a wood burning sauna, and plants carefully placed around the facility, Sauna Karumaru does an excellent job of taking you into the woods without having to leave the world’s largest city.

“My Place”, the other motif of Sauna Karumaru, is described as

A place that seems to be everywhere, but surprisingly is not.
However, everyone has moments when they want to relax.
Karumaru is a place where you can find your own place to relax.
That is one of the concepts of Karumaru.

This first line strongly resonated with me. A conversation that I frequently have within the sauna community is how increasingly rare “third places” are. Outside of bars and the occasional gym, many of the conventional places outside of the home and work for people to congregate have disappeared or diminished over the past forty years. Where local community organizations, labor unions, and recreational sports teams previously served as spaces outside of work to form friendships and relax, these spaces are becoming increasingly less common for adults.

While this has been the case in much of the developed world for the past 30-40 years, it seems to have been accelerated by the global pandemic. One of (and possibly the last) bastions of a cell-phone free space, sauna have, oddly enough, emerged as a third place in nearly everywhere I have traveled. Ranging from small towns to the largest cities in the world, sauna provide a third place for a lot of people, including many of my close friends. Free from the constant bombardment of modern technology, you are forced both to connect with people and relax into your body. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that Japan’s sauna boom has coincided with COVID-19 so neatly. People crave a third space and connection deeply, which places like Sauna Karumaru understand.

*For more on this topic, Robert Putnam’s “Bowling Alone” does a great deep dive from a sociological perspective on this issue, focusing specifically on American public life, and its decline into the late 20th century.

Facilities:

Kero Sauna (left) and Stone Sauna (right)

Kero (Kelo) Sauna:

If you’re anything like me, you are probably curious what a “kero” sauna is. The “kero” in kero sauna refers to kelo wood (Japanese doesn’t have the L sound, so it is adjusted here to fit the Japanese phonology). Those who are a fan of my reviews may recognize the term from my Sauna Tokyo review, which also boasts a kelo sauna.

Kelo wood comes from pine trees in Finland that have grown for 300-400 years, then gone through the process of dying and shedding bark for several decades, until it has completed this process, and can then be considered kelo wood. Given how long it takes for “new” kelo wood to emerge, the wood is considered a rarity. Additionally, kelo wood is an incredibly effective as an insulator, and has a distinctly comforting woodsy scent that make kelo wood highly sought after in sauna building.

Sauna Karumaru’s kelo sauna seats just under ten people, and does an excellent job of keeping mid-to high heat paired with moderate humidity. The top and bottom levels are drastically different temperatures than each other, which allows for a more relaxed or intense experience in the sauna.

Stone Sauna:

Karumaru’s largest sauna, this stone sauna uses Aji stone, a highly durable type of Japanese granite that is known for its densitiy and durability. The use of Aji stone results in a sauna that effectively retains heat, while also absorbing excess heat to ensure a comfortable sauna experience. They also host Aufguss here, which is a pleasant experience on any of the four sauna benches, due to the stone sauna’s effective heat regulation.

Barrel Steam Sauna:

A personal sauna with a capacity for one (be prepared to wait in line), the barrel steam sauna is made of Koya Pine from Wakayama Prefecture in western Japan, as well as Himalayan and Nanyang cedar. These types of wood give the sauna rot-resistance from the steam exposure, as well as a nice woodsy aroma you can smell inside the sauna. Each person only gets around six minutes in the sauna, but trust me: that is ample time. The barrel sauna gets incredibly hot, and will have you running into the near-freezing cold plunge nearby!

Wood Burning Sauna:

My personal favorite, this sauna lives up to its name and uses an actual wood-fired stove as its heat source. Only groups of five are allowed in at a time, so you enter with a sense of anticipation and excitement. With a temperature around 80 degrees (around 176 Farenheit), the sauna allows you to slowly build up to a steady and comfortable sweat. Used in conjunction with the nearby cold plunge, this sauna is an absolute treat.

*This sauna only seats five at a time, so time slots are booked every hour in the main bathing area, so be sure to keep an eye out for when time slots are called!

Baths:

Note: Due to the sheer volume of baths (nine), this section will just cover the most unique baths. The rest are normal warm, cool, and electric baths that live up to the quality of the other amenities.

Thunder Tornado

This one is cold! I mean really cold! The temperature is above freezing at around 8-9 degrees (around 45 degrees). On its own, this can be cold but bearable. However, what really takes this pool up a notch is the hot-tub style jets that keep the water moving at all times. This makes the water feel close to freezing for an always exhilarating, often intense experience. Great after a high heat sauna session. Be careful with this one, especially if you are new to sauna!

Acrylic Avant (transparent cold bath/plunge tank)

Located on the rooftop deck, this one person plunge tank is designed like an Avant (which means “hole in a frozen lake in Finnish”). Just a few steps away from both the wood burning sauna and several warm rooftop baths, this bath is an absolute treat! With a temperature at around 14 degrees (57 Fahrenheit), the one-meter deep plunge tank matches the surrounding baths and sauna incredibly well. This bath is possibly my favorite amenity from an aesthetic standpoint, as I think its easy to look at, and complements its surroundings well.

Rock and Box Baths:

Situated next to each other, the Rock and Box baths offer the most bathing focused experiences in area up the stairs from most of the sauna facilities.

The rock bath is set at a relaxing “neutral warm” temperature of 36 degrees (97 degrees), that make it a pleasant bath to reset and relax in. The bath is made of Kitagi stone from the Okayama prefecture in and around the Southern portion of Honshu, the largest island in Japan. Combined with the serene garden through the window, I really enjoyed utilizing this bath to unwind between intense sauna and cold bath sessions.

The box bath uses Aomori Hiba wood, a type of Cypress wood historically used in the construction of temples, and has a refreshing aroma well suited for baths. Lying down in the body length bath gives a regal feeling, especially situated next to the visible outdoor garden and up the stairs from the majority of the sauna and baths. These baths are fairly hot at around 42 degrees (107 Fahrenheit), so it does’t take long to get the most out of these baths.

Bonus- Rest Area

Located a few floors down from the rest of the facilities, you can find one of my favorite parts of Sauna Karumaru- the rest area! Famous for its absolutely massive library with over 10,000 manga and magazines, you could spend nearly an entire day here alone (especially if you can read Japanese!).

The lounge area itself is excellent as well, with lots of comfortable chairs and places to sit and read. Be sure to stop by at some point on your visit!

Limitations/shortcomings:

While I do sincerely appreciate Sauna Karumaru’s sauna facilities, an issue I have ran into on my trips are the relatively small capacities of most of the sauna. Sauna Karumaru boasts four excellent sauna. However, two of them have a very limited capacity, with the barrel steam sauna seating only one person, and the wood sauna only seating five people. For a facility housing (what I estimate) to be around one hundred people using the bathing facilities at a given time, having only two sauna that fit more than five people can make things feel a bit cramped. Even just one additional sauna fit to hold ten to fifteen more people would give the space a bit more breathing room and make the congestion more manageable.

Lastly, this is a minor complaint, but in my sessions in the barrel steam sauna, I found that it would border on painful to exit the sauna with how much the steam would accumulate. In my experience, my gut reaction to the adding humidity to the sauna (steam, loyly, etc.) should be “aaahhh” and not “ow!”. Again, it’s nothing major, but lowering the steam output by just a bit would make the barrel steam sauna an even better experience than it already is.

Best Moment:

The wood burning sauna is nothing short of magical. While capacity is limited and you will likely only get to use once during your stay, it is absolutely a must during your time at Karumaru. In combination with the outdoor transparent cold plunge/Avant, I left the wood sauna grinning ear to ear.

Verdict

Sauna Karumaru is both a great introduction to the specifics of Japanese sauna culture, and well refined bathing facilities. If you are looking for a balance of sauna and baths, a sauna/bathing oriented capsule hotel experience, and an excellent lounge to unwind in afterwards, give Sauna Karumaru a visit!

Food Pairing:

Anan (Yakiniku next door!)

Right across from the elevator to the entrance is a yakinikku restaurant. For those unfamiliar, yakiniku is similar to korean barbeque. When Koreans intitially imigrated to Osaka in west Japan, they brought Korean BBQ with them. Overtime, this developed some distinctly Japanese characteristics and became what is now yakinikku. If you’re hungry after your sauna session, this couldn’t be more conveniently located.

Greater Ikebukuro station.

While yakiniku is nice and convenient, there are also countless food options near Japan’s third largest (!) subway station. If you’re adventurous, I would highly encourage going for a stroll and seeing what you find! There are lots of both Japanese and international food options, so you’re bound to find something to your liking before too long.

Sento Sensei Reviews, Uncategorized

Minato-Yu

Elegant, hidden, modern.

Tattoos Okay? No
Sauna? Yes
Price? $
Should I Bring Toiletries? Some. Body wash and shampoo provided.
Best For? Those looking for a luxurious, bathing forward experience for a reasonable price.

Nearest Station? Hatchibori Station (Hibiya Line)

Tucked away in Tokyo’s wealthy Minato ward, Minato-Yu is one of the classiest neighborhood baths in the city. Thoughtful aesthetic choices combined with extensive bath options make Minato-Yu a destination to visit.

Aesthetics

Minato-yu excels in this department. The entrance looks like if Team Lab designed a speakeasy entrance leading to a sento. “Unassuming” and “sparkling jade” don’t sound like they would go together, but Minato-yu makes it work.

Entrance to Minato-yu

Once the automatic, secretive door opens, you find yourself in a cozy lobby. Similar to most local sento around Tokyo, albiet a bit nicer. The small hallway leading into the locker room is a highlight of the venue. Using the same sparkling jade motif as the front door, the hallway sets the tone for the venue, emphasizing that while this is a public bath, that doesn’t prevent if from being luxurious.

Absolutely breathtaking. Looks more like an art exhibition than a public bath hallway.

Thankfully, this idea doesn’t stop at the hallway. The baths don’t pull any punches either. With a black tile finish complimented by a grey tile and wood exterior, the baths fulfill the luxurious image provided by the entrance and hallway of the venue.

Right at the bath entrance to wash yourself. Another great aesthetic choice that elevates the experience.

Culture/vibe

Minato-yu is, as the name suggests located in the Minato ward of Tokyo. This is widely known as one of the wealthiest parts of the city. Despite how nice Minato-yu is, it is still a public bath. The wealth of the community is on full display here, and you can clearly see the contrast between a lot of dying public baths around Japan and Minato-yu. While many baths houses are dated, near empty, and thirty years overdue for a renovation, Minato-yu the complete opposite. Modern, lively, and state of the art, Minato-yu reflects the affluence of the neighborhood it resides in.

What I really appreciate about Minato-yu is despite how nice it is, it’s still priced at a standard sento rate (520 yen for a bath, an additional 500 yen for using the sauna). When I feel like I want to treat myself to a slice of luxury and don’t want to break the bank, I have found Minato-yu to be a great compromise.

Despite how luxurious the venue is, it has a certain subdued nature that I find comforting. Maybe the secretive door found on an unassuming side street contributes to this, but I found myself really able to mentally disconnect from the outside world and let any thoughts from the outside world pass me by here. Much like a zen garden, finding a small aesthetically pleasing space to pause and relax in a relatively busy area can really add a sense of peace to the day.

Facilities

The baths are a highlight of the facility, and stand out above all else. I appreciated the variety at Minato-yu, with the left side (typically men’s) of the venue hosting four different baths: one cold bath, a jaccuzzi, a warm bath (with sections for a jetted bath and electric bath attached) and a hotter bath nearby (pictured below). The warm bath water felt especially nice, with the circular jacuzzi coming in at a close second (found behind the left circular wall pictured below).

Men’s side of the baths (right side- switches on Sundays)
The spherical Jacuzzi bath isn’t something I’ve seen at many sento before, and trying Minato-yu’s made me want to see more!

The right side (women’s, except on Sunday’s) (pictured below) is a touch smaller. No circular jacuzzi bath), but it compensates with a better sauna.

Women’s bathing area

The sauna differed between sides, with the mens (right) side sauna being an infared sauna, and the women’s being a stone sauna. The men’s sauna is sufficient, but nothing to write home about. It’s a nice addition and pairs with the cold plunge well, but isn’t a definitive part of the experience.

The women’s (left side) sauna however, is a different story. Thankfully, I was able to go on a Sunday where sides are switched and try it myself. A larger stone sauna, the heat is hot without being suffocating, and is located right next to the cold plunge pool. A bit more spacious and a higher quality heat, the stone sauna definitely wins out from its counterpart.

Limitations/shortcomings

Each side is fairly different. Thankfully, both have strengths. As mentioned above, one side (typically the women’s) has a better sauna, the other has better baths. That said, in a bathing focused facility, the side with better baths wins out, creating a discrepancy between the two sides. The “better” side with more baths is currently men only except for on Sunday’s, so keep this in mind when visiting. There is conflicting information on the website about if the baths rotate weekly or just on Sundays. It currently appears like the rotation is just on Sundays for now, but if anything changes, I will update this section accordingly.

Additionally, while the sauna on the men’s side certainly isn’t bad, I think the baths certainly outshine the sauna here. It’s still a solid sauna, but if you’re on the fence about using it or not/on a tight budget, I would just go for the baths. The bathing here is top notch, and you can have a great time just using the baths. That said, it’s certainly not a poor quality sauna. Not sure why the sauna varied so much between sides, but it is something to note.

Verdict:

Minato-yu is a unique, modern public bathing experience that is worth a visit, especially if you want to focus on bathing. Minato-yu’s aesthetics are top-notch, and the low price point make this an even more enticing option in the otherwise expensive Minato-ward of Tokyo. For those wanting a bathing-forward experience and luxury on a budget, pay Minato-yu a visit.

Food Pairing

Menya Kokoro

A chain of maze soba restaurants, I always treat myself to Menya Kokoro whenever I visit Minato-yu. This was my first introduction to maze soba, which is a Taiwanese style dry noodle dish typically served with vegetables, raw egg, and meat. Menya Kokoro serves the dish with a spice blend that always hits the spot. Dishes are relatively affordable here at around 1000 yen (around $8.00 USD). While it is a chain, I often find Minato-yu’s proximity to Menya Kokoro as a deciding factor when choosing between sento to visit! You won’t be disappointed.